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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

7-/7
Pražská stěna
To the right of the "Letná Plain" route up the wall via Ring and hourglasses to the 2nd… Rock Climbing Textile belay
9+
Pražská stěna
To the right of the "Clean Style" route up the wall via 5 BH to the 2nd ring of the … Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8/8+
Pražská stěna
To the right of the "Direct Hradčany" route up the wall via 3 rings, then a hole, a ring,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Pražská stěna
Up the middle of the NW wall along the crack and fissure directly to the 2nd Ring of the … Rock Climbing
7/7+
Pražská stěna
From the block in the middle of the wall diagonally left via 3 Rings to the edge (4th… Rock Climbing
9/9+
Pražská stěna
To the right of the "Doves' Route" up the wall via 2 Rings to the 1st Ring of "Hradčany". Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8+/9-
Pražská stěna
From the crack corner of the "Direct Doves' Route" briefly up and right up the wall via 9… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8+/9-
Pražská stěna
Up the middle of the valley wall via 5 BH to the ledge and right to the 2nd Ring of the … Rock Climbing
7-/7
Pražská stěna
To the right of the start of "Lonely Crack" up the wall via 2 rings further to a small… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Pražská stěna
Up the corner in the left part of the valley wall under the overhang. Left to the Ring,… Rock Climbing
8+/9-
Pražská stěna
To the right of Smog up the wall via 3 BH to the 3rd BH of Smog. From the ledge to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Pražská stěna
Like "Gypsy Crack" to the Ring. Traverse right to the 2nd Ring. Up the crack and chimney… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6+/7-
Pražská stěna
Like "Gypsy Crack" to the 1st Ring, traverse right approx. 10m to the rib. From there… Rock Climbing
8/8+
Pražská stěna
From the start of Smog up the wall via 5 BH to the 5th BH of the Prague Spring route.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Pražská stěna
To the right of the S edge up the wall via 3 BH to the 1st ring of the Gypsy Crack route.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2+
Věž ve strži
Up the plateau edge to the left of the Old Route to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Pražská stěna
Via the Django Reinhardt route across 2 rings to the balcony, left up the rib (BH) and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Pražská stěna
In the North wall from the gully traverse right to the Ring. Up the crack, later by… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Jablonecká stěna
To the right of the Šusťáci route, up the wall (BH) under the overhang (2nd BH), over it… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Věž ve strži
Up the chimney of the plateau wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Věž ve strži
From the gully up the wall and a small crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Jablonecká stěna
Up the middle of the wall to the ring and by a crack across the ceiling to the 2nd ring.… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Jablonecká stěna
Left of the 'Vůně podzimu' variant from a stone in the corner by the wall slightly right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Jablonecká stěna
By the wall and a crack to K. By the wall into a gully, through it and a chimney to a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6+/7-
Jablonecká stěna
In the left part of the massif (left of the large chimney) along the edge to the small… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
9/9+
Jablonecká stěna
From the start of the route 'Modravé mámení' along the edge (3 BH) by the wall over a BH… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Jablonecká stěna
Left of the 'Šusťáci' route by a corner/small chimney (sokolík) to the ledge. Up along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Jablonecká stěna
Left of the start, behind the edge, by a crack and the wall to the pulpit. Along the edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
9+
Jablonecká stěna
By the overhanging edge over the BH directly to the ring of the route 'Modravé mámení'… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Ozvěna
Right in the S face by a crack, higher up by a chimney under a wedged boulder. Traverse… Rock Climbing

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