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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5
Severní Tyršova věž
From the gully between the towers, up the crack in the South face, higher up via the… Rock Climbing
4-
Severní Tyršova věž
As "Old Route" to the fore-summit, traverse right around the East edge and up the wall to… Rock Climbing
4-
Severní Tyršova věž
From the gully to the saddle below the South summit, up the SE edge or left up the wall… Rock Climbing
2+
Severní Tyršova věž
About 7m right of the start of "Forgotten Crack", up the wall below the fallen block and… Rock Climbing
2+
Severní Tyršova věž
Via the "Old Route" to the fore-summit and up the SE edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Severní Tyršova věž
As "B-complex" to the 2nd K. Slightly left up the crack under the overhang and up the… Rock Climbing
5+
Severní Tyršova věž
As "Variant", up the crack to the overhang, above it traverse left up the wall to the… Rock Climbing
5
Severní Tyršova věž
Left of the chimney, up the crack, corner, and again the crack to the traverse. Rock Climbing
5+
Severní Tyršova věž
Up a faint SW edge for about 10m, then obliquely right up the wall towards the hourglass… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
7/7+
Severní Tyršova věž
To the left of the route "B-complex" up the wall over 3K into a small crack and through… Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Severní Tyršova věž
Through the fissure to the left of the "Acoustic Route" over BH to the 3rd K and 4th K of… Rock Climbing
6
Severní Tyršova věž
About 10m to the right of "Sonata of Vertical Life" up the wall and ridge to the 1st K.… Rock Climbing
8+/9-
Severní Tyršova věž
Up the center of the valley wall directly over 6BH into the ledge and from there left… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
6
Severní Tyršova věž
From the 2nd K of the "Sonata of Vertical Life" route, through the corner to loose blocks… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Severní Tyršova věž
To the right in the valley wall (by positioning) into the crack and up it to the 1st K.… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Severní Tyršova věž
From the 2nd K of the "Acoustic Route" directly into the crack of "Sonata of Vertical… Rock Climbing
8/8+
Severní Tyršova věž
From the 3rd K of the route "Condiciogram" directly up the wall to K, slightly left over… Rock Climbing
8+/9-
Severní Tyršova věž
To the left of "Skinning" up the wall over 5BH under the overhang, from the left to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
7+/8-
Severní Tyršova věž
From the 3rd K of the route "Crossroads of Fates" directly up the wall over 2BH to the… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Severní Tyršova věž
Completely to the left in the valley wall up the chimney, then traverse to the 1st K. Up… Rock Climbing
8+/9-
Severní Tyršova věž
NW edge to the 1st BH from the right 2nd BH directly along the edge and right to the 3rd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8+/9-
Severní Tyršova věž
In the left part of the valley wall, directly up the blunt edge over K and 2 BH into the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
6
Severní Tyršova věž
Through the corner in the valley wall under a roof-like overhang and right to the 1st K.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
7/7+
Pražská stěna
Up the small pillar directly to the 1st Ring of the "Memory of Jirka Šlégl" route.… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Pražská stěna
Up the chimney between Tyršova Tower and Prague Wall for about 15m. Traverse diagonally… Rock Climbing
5+
Severní Tyršova věž
Completely to the left in the valley wall over blocks under a roof-like overhang and… Rock Climbing
8/8+
Pražská stěna
From the balconies to the right at the corner between Prague Wall and Tyršovy Towers, to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+/8-
Pražská stěna
From the 6th Ring of the "Heart Crater" route via a crack in the roof-like overhang to… Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Pražská stěna
As "Turkish Sword" to the shelf under the large corner. To the right at the edge, cut… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Pražská stěna
Start as the route "Turkish Sword". After 15m traverse left to the 1st K. Several meters… Rock Climbing

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