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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

7+/8-
Ozvěna
By the valley (S) face directly over 3 BH to the summit. Rock Climbing
8/8+
Ozvěna
By a corner/small chimney (sokolík) and a dull edge (3 BH) to the ledge. Overhanging wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6+/7-
Ozvěna
From the West by a notch (K), higher up by a corner/small chimney (sokolík) under the… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Ozvěna
Left in the S face along a crack (K), higher up by the wall from the right to the 2nd K.… Rock Climbing
8+/9-
Sluneční erupce
Via the curved NW edge (bolt) directly over the overhang and up the wall to the ledge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Budík
Just left of the route 'Exact Time', along a fine crack to the ledge to the 1st K. Left… Rock Climbing
4+
Vyšehrad
Right of the overhang, via a crack leading left, higher up through a corner between the… Rock Climbing
6
Vyšehrad
In the left part of the wall, right of the large corner, along the edge and wall (4K) to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Vyšehrad
Approach left of the large corner. Through a crack to a ledge (belay station). Left and… Rock Climbing
6
Vyšehrad
In the left part of the wall through a large corner under the overhang to the ring. Via a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Budík
Right in the S face, via a crack into a deep corner and through it up to just below the… Rock Climbing
5+
Budík
Left of 'Velký kout' (Great Corner) via a crack that turns right higher up, to the ledge.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Budík
In the valley face from the bivouac, up the overhanging crack to an overgrown ledge. Up… Rock Climbing
4+
Budík
Left in the S face, up a crack to the balcony and through a corner under the overhang.… Rock Climbing
4+
Labský pilíř
Completely to the right in the S wall, along the cracks to a balcony and via a corner to… Rock Climbing
5
Labský pilíř
From the platform in the S wall, left via a crack to the 1st bolt. Up the wall to the 2nd… Rock Climbing
5+
Labský pilíř
To the right in the S wall, along the edge to a bolt. Up the wall under a large overhang.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Labský pilíř
Up the middle of the S wall into a crack. Along it and higher up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Labský pilíř
To the right in the S wall, from the platform over several ledges to a bolt. Right via a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Labský pilíř
To the right of the 'South Crack', via a crack and wall to a bolt. Up the wall to the 1st… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Labský pilíř
Up the left part of the S wall to a small platform. Along the SW edge (bolt) to a large… Rock Climbing
6-
Labský pilíř
About 4m to the right of the start of the 'Magic Wall', directly up the wall (bolt) to… Rock Climbing
6-
Labský pilíř
To the right of the 'Overhanging Edge' to a large ledge. Up a small crack and wall to a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Labský pilíř
To the left of the SW edge, via a crack and wall (4 bolts) to the balcony. (Abseil anchor… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Labský pilíř
To the right of the 'Valley Chimney', up a narrow crack and wall to a bolt. Up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Labský pilíř
Via the chimney in the center of the wall to the platform and up the pillar to the summit. Rock Climbing
8-/8
Mungo
From the 1st bolt of the Rikki Tikki Tavi route, left up the wall to a bolt and up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Labský pilíř
Up the left part of the wall directly for 35m to the platform. Then up the wall of the… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Mungo
Up the valley (SW) edge via a ring and a bolt, higher up the wall to the right (2nd ring)… Rock Climbing
5
Labský pilíř
From the large platform (tree), left in the valley wall, traverse right to the 1st ring… Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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