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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

7/7+
Komoda
From the gully between Skříň and Komoda, via the right part of the wall over 2 BH, left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Skříň
From the saddle between Skříň and Špičák, traverse the valley wall to the right into the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
9/9+
Skříň
In the left part of the plateau side, up the face over 2 BH to the ledge (hourglasses),… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8/8+
Senátor
In the right part of the massif, in front of the chimney, behind Skříň, by the… Rock Climbing Textile belay Danger
6-
Senátor
Via the prominent, wide crack under the overhang (K), left over it and via the crack,… Rock Climbing
8-/8
Senátor
From the divergence at the right edge of the main wall, left over the 1st bolt to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Senátor
In the middle of the right pillar (in the corner opposite the E wall of Špičák), directly… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8-/8
Senátor
From the 1st bolt (BH) of the Central Tomograph, right via a crack (BH) to the 3rd bolt… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+/8-
Senátor
Right of the "Plší crack", up the wall along cracks via 3 K under a roof-like overhang … Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Vojtíšek
Via the V-edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Zarputilec
In the right part of the NW face over ledges to the ring. Up the wall over a small… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6+/7-
Zarputilec
In the left part of the NW face, higher up along a fine crack over 2 rings into a small… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8-/8
Senátor
To the left of the Plší crack, up the wall (3 bolts), along the small chimney edge and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7+/8-
Bezvýznamná věž
Via the narrow overhanging W wall (BH) to the abseil point. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Vojtíšek
Via the crack in the plateau wall. Rock Climbing
5
Vojtíšek
From the balcony, step left into the valley wall and there via a crack under the overhang… Rock Climbing
3
Vojtíšek
From the S onto the balcony and via the crack in the narrow SW wall to the plateau. Left… Rock Climbing
2
Vinohrad
Central part 2 projects. Approved May 16, 2023, permitted until May 16, 2025. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+/8-
Hnojový dům
From the right to the right valley edge of the protruding pillar and along it over BH to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6+/7-
Brambulák
3 m left of the valley edge, up the wall over BH and a spike to the crack of the "Šulín… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
?
Strážce Jílového dolu
From the massif, descend to the upper edge of the chimney between the tower and the… Rock Climbing
4+
Nalepená věž
From the rock window, by stemming and a crack between the tower and the massif to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Nalepená věž
Via the "Southwest Path" to the ledge and through the corner to the rock window.… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
4+
Nalepená věž
To the right of the start of the "Southwest Path" via a crack to the ledge. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
4-
Nalepená věž
From the west, through the corner between the tower and the massif to the ledge, traverse… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
4+
Nalepená věž
To the right of the "SW path variant" via a crack to the balcony. Through the corner and… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
8/8+
Nalepená věž
From the start of the Southwest variant from the balcony, traverse right across the face… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
4+
Bludný Holanďan
About 6m left of the "Chimney route" via a twin crack to the balcony, a wide crack under… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
5
Bludný Belgičan
Via the crack directly below the abseil, over the hourglass to the abseil BH. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Bludný Holanďan
From the V between the tower and the massif to the summit. Rock Climbing

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