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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4+
Bludný Belgičan
Left of the Ping route, left along the receding corner up to below the overhang. Below… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Nevěrník
From the massif, step over to the S edge and right onto the small plateau. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
5
Nevěrník
From the SW via an intermittent crack and over the overhang to the top. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
2
Skřítek kameníček
From the massif, traverse high up. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Nevěrník
Via the crack in the plateau wall or directly up the wall to the small plateau and via… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Nevěrník
Along the NE edge via K to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Nevěrník
Left in the E face via the overhanging crack directly to the groove. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5+
Milenci
Left in the plateau wall, step from the boulder onto the SW edge and along it to the top. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
5
Milenci
From the saddle E along the edge. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
3
Nevěrník
Along the NE edge to the ledge, left and along the groove, higher up along the edge to… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
3
Milenci
Via the chimney in the NE face to the balcony, via the pillar and again via the chimney… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
6-
Milenci
From the start of "SW Edge" diagonally right up the wall to 1st K. Up and left to 2nd K… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
4+
Nevěrník
Directly to the top via the SE edge. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
4+
Milenci
In the W face of the S tower into the crack and along it to the top. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
5+
Milenci
Left in the W face over the overhang and up the wall to K. Left to the small balcony and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Milenci
From the start of "Blind Love" diagonally left into the valley wall and over K and window… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
2+
Milenci
Via the chimney from the W to the top. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
6+/7-
Fráterník
To the left of the “Word of Comfort” route, up the wall via 2K, higher up along the crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Fráterník
In the middle of the NW wall via a crack to the end (K) and up the wall along the edge to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Děravá věž
Like the “Old Path” into the gully. Up the upper wall diagonally right to the NE edge and… Rock Climbing
3
Děravá věž
From the massif, step across to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Děravá věž
In the upper wall, diagonally left to the SE edge and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Děravá věž
Descend from the massif or from the South via a chimney into the gully. Climb through the… Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Děravá věž
Up the left valley edge and crack to a ledge (K). Left up the face and crack, right onto… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Děravá věž
To the right of the “Valley Path” onto the adjacent pillar and up the wall via K to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Děravá věž
From the gully, traverse left up the S wall to the “Old Path” balcony. Rock Climbing
5+
Děravá věž
At the SE edge, via a small pillar into the crack and through it, higher up via a small… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Děravá věž
From K of the “Údolní cesta” (Valley Route) up the face (K) diagonally right onto the S… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Děravá věž
In the middle of the valley face via a small crack/corner and up the face (K), left onto… Rock Climbing
8+/9-
Děravá věž
In the S wall to the left of the Fork Path, up the wall directly over 2 K to the ledge … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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