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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6+/7-
Děravá věž
At the right valley edge via cracks to the end (K). Diagonally left and along the left… Rock Climbing
9+
Děravá věž
Up the valley pillar directly over the bolt to the ring of the “Zabijácká mašina” … Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Děravá věž
In the N face via a crack to K. Left into another crack and via it to the ledge of the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
?
Synagoga
From the massif, descend to the tower and jump/step across to the summit. Rock Climbing
9/9+
Synagoga
Right in the S face (left of the “Školní komín” (School Chimney) route) via an indistinct… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
5+
Synagoga
From S, via the opposition chimney between the tower and the massif to K. Traverse left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Synagoga
From S, via the chimney between the tower and the massif to the summit. Rock Climbing
8/8+
Děravá věž
Left of the Katapult route up the face diagonally left to the 1st bolt and directly to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Synagoga
Up the middle of the S face via a small crack to a ledge, then via a small gully and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+/8-
Synagoga
Right of the “Velký kout” (Great Corner) route via the overhanging face over 6K to the… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Synagoga
Left of the “Jižní komín” (South Chimney) via the edge to a shelf (hourglass) and up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Synagoga
5m left of the S edge up the face over 2K directly under the overhang to the 3rd K. Over… Rock Climbing
6-
Synagoga
Like “Advokát chudých” (Lawyer for the Poor) about 6m to the 2nd ledge and along it… Rock Climbing
6
Synagoga
Up the blunt edge over 3K to the 1st K of the “Advokát chudých” (Lawyer for the Poor)… Rock Climbing
6-
Synagoga
Up the S edge, higher up the gully to its right to a ledge and left to the 1st K. Over… Rock Climbing
8/8+
Synagoga
Like the “Přímá cesta pro Kateřinu” (Direct Route for Kateřina) (or via the “Bez práce” … Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Synagoga
In the valley face diagonally right to K. Directly into the corner and via it over the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Synagoga
Up the N face diagonally right to the 1st piton. To the right up the wall, then traverse… Rock Climbing
5+
Synagoga
From SW, via the corner crack to a large plateau and via the corner (K) to the fore… Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Synagoga
Follow the “Velký kout” (Great Corner) route about 6m up and right along a crack over K… Rock Climbing
4+
Synagoga
Up the chimney in the SW face, higher up the crack to the fore-summit and up the face to… Rock Climbing
6
Synagoga
Left of the “Velký kout” (Great Corner) route up the face, higher along the edge over 6K… Rock Climbing
6
Synagoga
Along the NW edge via 2 pitons, up the wall (3rd piton), via a crack and to the right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Synagoga
From the N into the chimney between the tower and the massif, briefly up it and traverse… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Rioja
In the right part of the wall via 3 bolt hangers to the rappel station. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Rioja
In the left part of the wall via 2 bolt hangers and a rappel bolt hanger. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Synagoga
From the N side, left of the "Rychlé šípy" (Rapid Arrows) route, from the block up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7+/8-
Rioja
In the middle of the wall via 3 bolt hangers to the rappel station. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2+
Krabice na sušenky
Along the left upper edge. Rock Climbing
4+
Věž Jílového potoka
From the base of the valley wall, up the chimney to the E forepeak and as "Northern… Rock Climbing

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