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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4+
Casterlyova skála
In the valley wall, climb the crack and corner to the summit Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Casterlyova skála
In the valley wall directly (BH) to the summit Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Casterlyova skála
On the S wall to the left of the chimney, climb the wall and edge to the summit Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Casterlyova skála
Via the S edge over steps to the summit Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Casterlyova skála
In the right part of the valley wall, climb the overhanging wall (BH) to the summit Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Casterlyova skála
On the S wall, climb the chimney and over the small tower to the rappel point Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Sektor 113
In the center of the right part of the massif, climb the wall (2K) to the rappel point. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Casterlyova skála
In the left part of the massif from the block (BH) to the summit Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Sektor 113
In the right part of the massif, climb the corner over the overhang to the ledge and then… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Sektor 113
To the right in the right part of the massif, climb the rib, crack, and corner to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Sektor 113
In the middle part of the massif left by wall over large hour glass and BH directly to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8/8+
Sektor 113
Center of the wall over hour glass and 3 BH to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Casterlyova skála
In the left part of the valley wall, climb the cracks and wall to the summit Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Sektor 113
Right of the route “Nuclear Waste” by wall over 2 BH to the rappel. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Casterlyova skála
In the left part of the massif, climb the dihedral and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Sektor 113
By crack (hour glass) left to the edge over 2 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Planeta
From the plateau side left via delicate small features to the summit. Rock Climbing
8+/9-
Planeta
Right in the valley wall from the corner diagonally right into the nest and through the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Planeta
Through the chimney between the tower and the massif. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Planeta
By jump to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Sektor 113
In the left part of the massif by chimney and corner to the top. (SM) Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Sektor 113
In the middle part of the massif right by crack to the balcony and higher by crack along… Rock Climbing Textile belay
9/9+
Planeta
In the East wall from the right edge diagonally left and then directly over 5 BH to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
8+/9-
Planeta
In the East wall from the fore-rock directly over 5 BH to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Planeta
Through the chimney in the valley wall to the saddle and by a bridging chimney to the… Rock Climbing
8+/9-
Planeta
Up the wall over 2BH and right to the 4th BH of the route “Follow my steps”. By that to… Rock Climbing
9/9+
Planeta
Right of the route “Ležec” over BH into the route “Follow my steps”. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8+/9-
Planeta
Right South edge, later left by wall over 5 BH and hour glass to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8+/9-
Planeta
Left of the route “Ležec” over 5BH to the pre-summit. Optionally to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Planeta
Left of the “Valley Route” by wall (K), higher by chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing

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