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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6
Planeta
Right of the route “Your Problem” over 3 BH. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7+/8-
Planeta
Left of the route “Your Problem” over 4BH to the pre-summit. Optionally to the summit. Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Planeta
In the left part of the full wall to the 1st BH. From the left to the 2nd BH and up over… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Krkavčí stěna
Center of the wall (1st K) to the ledge (hour glass) and from the right to the 2nd K.… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Krkavčí stěna
On the left pillar along the edge to the shelf and left to K. Over the overhang and up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Krkavčí stěna
Right edge to the ledge (left hour glass) and crack to the cornice. By wall (K), higher… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Krkavčí stěna
Right of N route “Seven Ravens” along the edge of the pillar to the ledge, round edge (K)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Krkavčí stěna
On the right pillar along the edge via K to the summit. Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Panťáček
Through the middle of the W wall over 4 BH, higher up left to the abseil point. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8-/8
Panťáček
Up the wall along the NW edge over 3 BH, higher up the wall (BH) and right to the abseil… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Čtverec
In the left part of the massif, up the wall to the 1st K. Directly up the wall, then… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Sahula
From the start of "Underground" traverse right across the wall (4 BH) to the abseil point. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6+/7-
Mudrc
From the 2nd ring (K) of the "Šém" route, up the wall over 2 rings (K) directly to the… Rock Climbing
4+
Mudrc
Via the corner from SW to the top. Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Sahula
Up the center of the valley wall over 5 bolts (BH) to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Sahula
Via the corner between Mudrec and Sahula (bolt) to the balcony. Up the wall from the left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Mudrc
Start in the right valley wall via an indistinct edge, then up the wall to the 1st ring … Rock Climbing
6
Mudrc
Along the SW edge over 3 bolts (BH) to the top (rappel). Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Mudrc
S wall right Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Mudrc
Via a crack in the valley wall over 2 rings (K) to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Mudrc
Up the wall along the South edge over 2 rings (K) directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Netopýr
From the South, via the chimney between the tower and the massif to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Mudrc
S wall left Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Netopýr
Via the left part of the valley wall over 2 rings (K) and hourglasses to the summit. (we… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Netopýr
To the right of the Valley Path, up the wall directly to the ring. Upwards and up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow
5+
Netopýr
To the left of the "South Chimney", via an overhanging crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
8+/9-
Poseidon
From the fore-rock to the left of "Končíme" (We Are Ending), via a crack and directly to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7+/8-
Poseidon
Along the right edge over 5 BH to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
5
Poseidon
Start in the right part of the valley SW face. Up a chimney over a wedged boulder for… Rock Climbing
6
Netopýr
At the South edge, via a crack to the 1st ring (K), from there left, then right to the… Rock Climbing

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