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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

8/8+
Poseidon
To the left above Gešnek along the grooves and along the edge over 4 bolts and a rappel… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
8/8+
Poseidon
From the 2nd BH of the "Mořská nemoc" (Sea Sickness) route, up the wall over 4 BH to the… Rock Climbing
5
Poseidon
To the left of the Komín (Chimney) route, in the corner between Poseidon and Gešnek, via… Rock Climbing
9/9+
Poseidon
From the fourth ring of the Nelson Ždímandela route, from the left to BH, up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Gešnek
At the NW edge via a crack to the ring. Directly to the summit. (to the rappel anchor) Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Gešnek
Along the left valley edge over an overhang via 2 BH to 3 BH, diagonally right up the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
9/9+
Poseidon
Completely to the left on Poseidon, in the corner above Gešnek. From the start of the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Gešnek
From the valley over an overhang to the balcony to K, and directly along the blunt edge… Rock Climbing
8/8+
Gešnek
At the left edge in the north face over 4 BH to the rappel anchor. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
6
Klepeta
Along the valley edge (above Gešnek) over a bolt to the rappel anchor. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Klepeta
To the left of the valley edge, up the overhanging wall over 2 bolts and right to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8+/9-
Gešnek
Through the center of the north face, a ring diagonally left via a chimney to 3 BH … Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
9/9+
Gešnek
Along the right valley edge over 5 BH directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Klepeta
Through the crack to the balcony and to the bolt left into the crack and along it to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Klepeta
Through the crack in the upper part of the left wall, higher up over the birch, to the… Rock Climbing
6-
Klepeta
To the left of the center of the Z-wall, up a short crack and along the ledge to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Klepeta
Entry as 'Strašilka' then traverse to the edge and along it over two rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Klepeta
To the right of Game of Cancer, up the wall over 3 BH to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Klepeta
In the right wall of the gorge up the crack almost to its end and right up the wall to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+/8-
Klepeta
About 2 m to the left of the start of the route Josef Kajetán Ichtyl, initially up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Klepeta
To the right of the route 'Fear Has Long Legs', via a crack over a ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7+/8-
Klepeta
To the right of the route 'Global Warming' on Klárka. Along the distinctive edge of the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Kamzičí hrot
From the platform in the S wall, descend slightly left and through a delicate crack to… Rock Climbing
5
Kamzičí hrot
From S through the chimney to the saddle and up the small wall to the platform in the S… Rock Climbing
5+
Kamzičí hrot
On the valley side along the edge to the platform and to the pillar. Traverse right and… Rock Climbing
6-
Kamzičí hrot
From the platform in the S wall, through the middle of the wall over K to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Kamzičí hrot
From the platform in the S wall, through the right part of the wall over BH to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Kamzičí hrot
Like "Stará cesta" to the saddle and along the S edge to K. Right along the cracks to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Kamzičí hrot
Right of the valley edge, overhanging wall via 2 rings to the ledge and wall (3rd and 4th… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Kamzičí hrot
From S via a walkway and wall diagonally right to the balcony on the valley side (also… Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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