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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6-
Neodtěžený kámen
Left part of the S wall over 2 bolts to the rappel bolt. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Neodtěžený kámen
Via the NE plateau edge over a bolt to the rappel bolt. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Plavčík
To the right of the SW edge over K to a small balcony. Directly up the edge to the pillar. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Arogant
To the right of the southern edge, up the wall via 3BH to the rappel point. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Arogant
Arrogant (new massif near Jezevec) From the block via the southern edge over 2BH to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Plavčík
Up the chimney for about 6m, then right up the narrow wall of the pillar to the pre… Rock Climbing
5+
Plavčík
Approach from the gully on the North side. Traverse right along the ledge into the North… Rock Climbing
8-/8
Plavčík
From the valley, easily 13m to the ledge to the bolt (belay station). Up the right part… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Plavčík
Up the right valley edge (6 BH, hour-glass) to the abseil anchor. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Plavčík
From the belay station of the route 'Dachóza ukrutná', diagonally left over 4 BH behind… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Plavčík
To the left in the valley wall via a corner for about 25m to the ledge. In the North wall… Rock Climbing
8-/8
Maják
From the upper large balcony, to the right of the corner between the Elbe beach and the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Maják
Right of "O Sole mio" via a wall (4BH) to the 1st and 2nd K of "Amore mio". Left via a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
9+
Maják
Right of the "Joker" route, via the wall over 4 BHs and further to the rappel BH of the … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Maják
Right valley corner, edge, again corner and edge over 10 BH Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Maják
From the 3rd BH of the "O sole mio" route, via the wall slightly right over 6K to the… Rock Climbing
2+
Labská pláž
In the right part of the massif from the valley, slabby wall (photo) Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Labská pláž
In the right part of the wall from the valley, slabby wall (photo) Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Labská pláž
To the right of the "Na pláž" (To the Beach) route, through a corner and up the wall over… Rock Climbing Textile belay
10
Labská pláž
From the upper balcony, to the right via a strongly overhanging wall over 4K to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8+/9-
Labská pláž
From the boulder, via a small pillar over two BHs and an edge to the 4th ring of the … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2+
Labská pláž
In the right part of the wall from the valley, edge (photo) Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+/8-
Kormidelník
From the Elbe Beach balcony, up the SW wall over 3 rings to the overhang with the wedged… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Kormidelník
Start via a slabby corner to the right of the "Iron Curtain" and up it to the balcony.… Rock Climbing
5+
Labská pláž
From the corner between Kormidelník (Helmsman) and Labská pláž (Elbe Beach), up the wall… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
8+/9-
Kormidelník
From the K of the Koma route, up the right wall over 3 BH to the 2nd K of the "Iron… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Kormidelník
Through the corner to the ledge, up the chimney to the terrace and through the wide… Rock Climbing
6
Kormidelník
From the 2nd K, straight up the wall to the 3rd K, then right to the edge to the 4th K… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7+/8-
Kormidelník
From the start of the "Lower Variant" up the wall (3BH) to the edge of the "Iron Curtain"… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Kormidelník
Start from the fore-summit, via the crack to the plateau below the SW edge. Along the… Rock Climbing

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