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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

7/7+
Metalistická stěna
On the right in the right part of the west wall, directly over 4 bolts. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
9/9+
Labský pravý totem
Through the roof and overhanging wall directly over 2 bolts, and under the summit, a… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Metalistická stěna
In the left part of the massif, over a ring to the rappel anchor. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Metalistická stěna
To the left of the NW edge, up the wall via 3 bolts to the rappel point. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8+/9-
Čertův mlýn
To the right of Infekce, up the wall to the bolt, diagonally left across the second bolt,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Labský pravý totem
On the left side of the massif, follow a chimney, corner, and overhanging crack to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+/8-
Čertův mlýn
"(Left of Metalistický massif) Along the edge over the bolt to the second bolt, then… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Naděje
In the downhill wall directly over 3 BH (bolts), from the right to the 4th BH and further… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
6+/7-
Naděje
To the right of the National Gingerbread route, from the block to the left to the 1st BH … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2+
Podsvinče
In the plateau wall, in the right part, through a corner to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Podsvinče
To the right of the "Left Crack" route, through a small wall to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Podsvinče
From the plateau side, in the left part, through a crack to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Podsvinče
To the right of the "Middle Upper" route, through a crack to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Podsvinče
From the plateau side, through the center of the wall to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Hřebenová jehla
Via the route "Jump" to a large platform. Down the edge of the massif to the pulpit. Fall… Rock Climbing
?
Hřebenová jehla
Via the route "Jump" to a large platform. Below it, from a small balcony, jump to the… Rock Climbing
4+
Hřebenová jehla
Via the route "Jump" to a large platform, descend to the center of the upland wall and… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
?
Hřebenová jehla
Via the route "Jump" to a large platform and from there jump to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
?
Hřebenová jehla
From the massif descend and up the corner crack to a large platform. Descend the chimney,… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Penzion svět
In the right part of the wall (to the right of the prominent protrusion) edge to the bolt… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Penzion svět
In the right side wall, briefly to the shelf and after it to the left. Sloping slab (BH)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Penzion svět
In the right part of the wall, briefly to the shelf. Up the wall over 3BH to the hollow.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Penzion svět
In the left part of the wall over 2BH and a clock to the platform to the ring. From the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Penzion svět
In the left side wall, over a bolt to the small balcony. Up the sloping wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Penzion svět
In the middle of the downhill wall over 4BH to the balcony and diagonally to the right… Rock Climbing
4+
Penzion svět
Along the left downhill edge over 2BH to the balcony. Continue with the route "Sausages,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Penzion svět
In the left side wall, up the crack to the balcony and to the left up the wall over 2… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8+/9-
Rozlámaná stěna
"To the left of Pride, through the middle of the small wall over two bolts to the top of… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Rozlámaná stěna
To the right of "Walk the Line" up the wall (bolts) to the shelf and right along the edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Rozlámaná stěna
In the right part of the wall to the left of a prominent pillar, corner notches and edge… Rock Climbing Textile belay

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