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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

7+/8-
Rozlámaná stěna
Overhanging edge over the bolt for rappel. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Rozlámaná stěna
To the right of "With a Stone on Your Head" from the shelf (large block) up the wall to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8-/8
Rozlámaná stěna
From the start of the Deziluze route, up the wall around the loose block and above it to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Rozlámaná stěna
Start 8m to the left of "Deziluze" up the wall over a bolt to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Rozlámaná stěna
Chimney to the left of "Osmibřízkové" to the end and wall diagonally to the right over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6+/7-
Španělská bota
Up the middle of the S wall over the 1st bolt into the small cracks and along them to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Španělská bota
Via the "Arena" route to the 2nd bolt. By the overhanging edge over 4 bolts to the "Arena… Rock Climbing
5+
Rozlámaná stěna
To the left of the "September Boys" route, up the corner narrowing into a crack, higher… Rock Climbing
5
Španělská bota
Up the chimney, higher up the corner under the overhang, over the overhang into the crack… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Rozlámaná stěna
Start with a brittle wall to the left of "Crazy Sima" over 4 rings to the top. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Španělská bota
Up the middle of the overhanging wall over the bolt to the corner and up it to the pillar… Rock Climbing
6
Španělská bota
Up the right overhanging edge to the 1st bolt. From it up the wall to the 2nd bolt and to… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Španělská bota
To the left of "Carmen", up the wall (3 BH) to the pillar and to the 2nd bolt of "Carmen"… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Španělská bota
Up the corner between Spanish Wall and Spanish Boot to the balcony (belay). Continue up… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Jižní bašta
From the massif near the SE edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Jižní bašta
Completely to the right in the overhanging wall, up the edge (3 BH), then left up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Jižní bašta
Up the wall and edge to the bolt. Up the overhanging wall to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Jižní bašta
To the right of "Sraz veteránů", climb the wall (4 BH) to the 5th BH of "Sraz veteránů"… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Jižní bašta
In the overhanging wall, to the right of the route "Don Quijote", climb the wall (5 BH)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Jižní bašta
In the left part of the south face, up the corner to the platform and diagonally right to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Jižní bašta
Start in the right part of the south face. Left to the balcony and through the middle of… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9+
Jižní bašta
Freely under the ceiling to the rappel BH. Through the ceiling and overhang via 2 BH to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
4+
Jižní bašta
Through the center of the valley face along the small cracks, then corner and left to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Jižní bašta
Through the center of the valley face like the Hugo route along cracks using chimney… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Štikas
Through the center of the valley face (4BH) to the rappel station. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Mimoni
Through the center of the west face (K) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Jižní bašta
From the ledge in the left part of the NW face directly up the slab across 2 anchors to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
2+
Mimoni
Through the center of the upper face to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Štikas
Like Numerologická výstraha, 1st bh into the crack and along it to the ledge. Left via… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Štikas
Along the left edge (3BH) to the shelf to the large pitons. Small wall 4th bh and left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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