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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

2
Čertenice
From NW to the chimney between the Pillar of the Drawbridge and the tower. By chimney to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Čertenice
To the left of the entrance to Hell's Gate, use the corner to the pulpit and to the right… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Čertenice
From the right, follow the open crack to the Sulfur Odor route's ring bolt and then to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
3
Čertenice
Left of the Hugín route on the pre-rock, left with a step over the chimney to the pulpit.… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Textile belay
6
Čertenice
On the left side of the South wall, from the balcony, use the notch to the end (K).… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
7+/8-
Čertenice
On the right side of the South wall, follow the crack and then up the wall, passing 2… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
2
Čertenice
Left of the Old Route, by chimney and slightly right to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Textile belay
4+
Pod Marínou
Right of the Free the Beer! route, by chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Pod Marínou
Start in the steep face of the pre-rock, up the wall (6 bolts) to the rappel. (see TOPO) Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Pod Marínou
Up the wall right of the "Dead Bones" route over 2 rings to the rappel. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6+/7-
Pod Marínou
In the right part of the steep wall, from the niche along the crack to the small balcony … Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Pod Marínou
Right of the "Nervous Starts" route, by the crack to the ring, above it left and by the… Rock Climbing
5+
Pod Marínou
In the NW face. Right of the Return of Friendship route, along the cracks slightly to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Pod Marínou
Left of the Sexual Handbook route, up the wall over 3 bolts to the rappel. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Pod Marínou
At the right lower edge of the gorge, over 4 rings to the rappel. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8-/8
Pod Marínou
In the left part of the steep wall, over 4 bolts to the rappel. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Apač
By the route of the 'Mazaks' and above the bolt, left along the edge directly over the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Apač
From the South, diagonally left and slightly upwards below the overhang. Traverse right… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Apač
From the chimney by the crack to the bolt, up the edge by the fissure diagonally left to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8+/9-
Samotka
From the slope, left of the "Clean Shield" route, up the wall to the horizontal notch and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Pod Marínou
On the left in the left part of the wall over 3 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Apač
Through the center of the SE face over 2 bolts to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Apač
By the crack at the left edge in the SE face to the bolt, straight up and by chimney to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
5
Apač
By the original route below the overhang, traverse left behind the edge into the steep… Rock Climbing
5+
Malá bašta
To the right of the start, up the wall and crack to the fissure. Rock Climbing
5+
Malá bašta
Up the second crack from the right diagonally to the right and upwards to its end. Then… Rock Climbing
9/9+
Samotka
From the slope, in the right part of the East face, through the corner to the horizontal… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Malá bašta
In the left part of the South face, by broken crack to the ledge and right to the 3rd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Malá bašta
In the center of the South face, by chimney and wall (2 rings) to the ledge to the 3rd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Malá bašta
On the right side of the massif, past 6 bolts to the 1st ring of the "Let's Escape to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay

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