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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5
Štikas
From the upper balcony between Pyramida and Štikas (belay station). Along the edge to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Pištec
In the left part of the south side, climb the face via 2 chockstones (K) to the top. … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Pištec
To the right of the "Music from the Mountains" route (2K) to the rappel. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Podzemí
Climb the overhanging wall directly into the hole of the "Chicane" route and follow it to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Pištec
Through the center of the face, up the slab (3K), and higher up on the left, chimney and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Pištec
Up the slab (2K), higher up to the left of the overhang to the summit with rappel bolt. Rock Climbing Textile belay
8/8+
Podzemí
Climb the overhanging wall via a bolt (bh) to the 2nd bolt (bh), traverse right into the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
4-
Kupka
In the west face, traverse to the edge and diagonally to the right to the top. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5+
Kobka
From the shelf on the south side over the overhang to the edge. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
2+
Kobka
Chimney between the massif and the tower upwards and edge to the top. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
3
Kobka
In the middle of the south wall by the corner, over the overhang and wall to the top. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
7+/8-
Kobka
Down the edge to 1st bolt and then wall (clock) and along the edge through 2nd bolt… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
7-/7
Kobka
Down the NE wall through a bolt into a hole and then over the overhang (bolt) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
2+
Čertenice
From the massif, jump to the Falling Bridge pillar. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Čertenice
Through the middle of the South wall, passing K to the short chimney, climb it and then… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
2
Čertenice
To the left of the Lower Chimney, use the corner and the squeeze to Hell's Cellar. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Textile belay
5
Čertenice
To the left of the Peklinda route, use the edge and rib to the ledge, and then the corner… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Textile belay
2
Čertenice
From the North, to the ledge in the massif and jump to the Falling Bridge pillar. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Textile belay
2+
Čertenice
To the right of the Falling Bridge pillar, in the middle of the upper West wall to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Čertenice
To the right of the Short Chimney, climb the West wall above the ledge. Squeeze between… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Textile belay
2
Čertenice
Use the chimney between the massif and the Falling Bridge pillar to the pillar, traverse… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Textile belay
2+
Čertenice
From the South, between the small tower and the main tower, use the chimney, then higher… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Čertenice
From the bolt on the The Devil Never Sleeps route, climb the wall directly to the top of… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
7-/7
Čertenice
Far right on the valley side, use the overhanging corner to the balcony, then along the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
7+/8-
Čertenice
To the right of the Black Angels route, up the wall over the overhang (bolt) to the crack… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
7-/7
Čertenice
On the right side of the East wall, over the prominent roof overhang and along the crack… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
5+
Čertenice
Climb the wall along the East edge of Strážení Tower, passing K to the top of the tower.… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
5
Čertenice
Along the South edge, passing K to the top of Strážení Tower. Freely to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
5+
Čertenice
In the middle of the NE wall to the crack (bolt) and follow it diagonally right to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
3
Čertenice
To the right of the The Devil Never Sleeps route, use the corner, then the chimney to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Textile belay

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