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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6+/7-
Malá bašta
Right of the "Hejkal" route, up the wall and edge past 11 bolts to the rappel bolt. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
6-
Malá bašta
Start up the edge to the right of the "Americký sen" route to the 1st bolt (K). Into the… Rock Climbing
6-
Malá bašta
To the right of the "Jasná zpráva" route, up the wall past 9 bolts (BH) to the rappel… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Malá bašta
As for "Drobná spára" to the ledge. To the right up the wall past 5 bolts (K) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6+/7-
Malá bašta
Up the crack and wall past 6 bolts (BH) to the rappel bolt (BH). Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Malá bašta
To the left of "Jasné zprávy", up the crack to the edge. Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Malá bašta
To the right of the start of "Černé spáry", up the crack to a ring on the balcony.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Malá bašta
Start from the ledge in the lowest part of the massif. Up the wall and crack to the… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Malá bašta
To the right of the "Černý spáry" route, along the crack to the left to a ring on the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Malá bašta
Up the edge to the left of the "Jasné zprávy" corner past 3 bolts (K) to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Malá bašta
To the left of the "Intervence" route, up the wall directly to the 1st bolt (K). Then… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6+/7-
Malá bašta
From the 3rd ring of the "Země Antilop" route, up the center of the wall 4 bolts (BH) to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8+/9-
Malá bašta
Approximately 15m to the left of "Hezké Iny", up the wall to a small balcony (K). Up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Malá bašta
Via the "Hezký Alfréd" route to the 4th bolt (BH). Then up the wall past 4 bolts (BH) to… Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Malá bašta
To the left of "Panamericana", up the wall to the left and along the edge, then up over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Velká bašta
Via the "Old Thought" route to the 2nd bolt (K). Higher diagonally to the right across… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Velká bašta
In the right part of the wall, up the distinct corner 40m, diagonally right to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Velká bašta
To the right of The Notched Path, up the crack to the large platform on the Eagle Edge.… Rock Climbing
5+
Velká bašta
Up the wider winding crack in the left part of the S wall to the "Eagle Edge" platform.… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Velká bašta
Start slightly to the right of the center of the wall. Up the wall and corner to the 1st… Rock Climbing
6-
Velká bašta
Up the corner of "The Notched Path" to the large beech tree and diagonally left to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Velká bašta
From the 8th K of the "Apostel Tommelfinger" route directly across the K to the 12th K. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Velká bašta
To the right of the "Huly Sport" route, briefly up the crack, then left on the wall (6K)… Rock Climbing
9/9+
Velká bašta
From the 5th bolt of the Huly Sport route under the ceiling and left to the ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9+
Velká bašta
Like "Huly Sport" to the 3rd bolt in the overhang and straight across 2 BH to the rappel… Rock Climbing
8+/9-
Velká bašta
Up the left overhanging wall (6 BH) under the overhang and through it (3 BH) diagonally… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Baldachýn
In the right part of the massif, to the left of the retreating corner, wall 2 BH, crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Baldachýn
Wall (K) to the 1st K of "Bedtime Route". Left up the wall (K), higher right along the… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Baldachýn
Along the Bedtime route to the small tree and further to the plateau. Right up the wall… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Baldachýn
Start on the right blunt edge of the wall. Along the edge and the wall slightly left… Rock Climbing

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