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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

7-/7
Baldachýn
To the right of "Bedtime Route" wall (K) over a hole to the 2nd K. Traverse right and… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Baldachýn
From the 2nd ring of the Straw Mattress route directly over bh to the 4th ring of the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Baldachýn
Completely to the right along the edge 3 BH to the ledge 4. BH diagonally right and along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Baldachýn
Through the left of the two parallel chimneys directly to the top. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Baldachýn
To the left of the route "Night Life" wall over 2BH to the 2nd K of the route "Sweet… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Baldachýn
Like "Night Life" to the 1st K. Up the wall diagonally left (2nd K) to the little corner… Rock Climbing
4+
Baldachýn
In the right part of the massif through the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Baldachýn
About 3 m left of the Parallel Chimney route over bh, ring, bh to the 3rd ring from the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Baldachýn
Through the "Right Chimney" (in the fall line of the W edge) and up the wall to K. Along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8/8+
Baldachýn
To the left of the cat trap from the fore-rock wall to 1K and 2BH-y to the ledge to 3BH,… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
6+/7-
Baldachýn
Via the route "Telegraph Road" to the 1st K of "Sokolík" and further along the edge (3K)… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Baldachýn
From the chipped block diagonally right up the wall to the 1st K. Rock Climbing
8-/8
Baldachýn
Right of “Rybičkova 50” up the wall via 6BH to the 5th K and left via BH to the rappel… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Baldachýn
From the chipped block directly up a gentle corner, traverse approx. 3m right and wall… Rock Climbing
6
Baldachýn
From the 2nd K of the route "Let it blow behind the carriage" left over the overhang and… Rock Climbing
6
Baldachýn
From the splintered block via a delicate chimney to the end and diagonally left to the… Rock Climbing
8/8+
Baldachýn
From the start of the “Matěj's Fair” route diagonally right to the 1st K. Up the wall via… Rock Climbing
6-
Zrcadlo
In the right part of the valley wall via the crack and left up the wall to the 1st K.… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Baldachýn
In the NW wall, directly up the wall via BH and the balcony to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Zrcadlo
Along the right edge via 3 K to the balcony and further along the edge (3 K) to the ledge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8+/9-
Zrcadlo
From the 1st ring of the Light Year route, up the small wall left of the corner via 2 BH… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Zrcadlo
In the left part of the wall via 3 bolts (K) to the edge. Along it via 2 bolts (K) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8+/9-
Zrcadlo
Through the middle of the valley wall via K into the corner and diagonally left to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Zrcadlo
Via the crack left of the “Mirror Edge” and diagonally right up the wall to the K of the… Rock Climbing
8+/9-
Zrcadlo
In the right part of the Mirror via 2BH to the ledge, belay. Right and via the chimney to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9/9+
Zrcadlo
Left of “Light Year” up the wall (K) to the 2nd K of “Light Year”. Continue via this to… Rock Climbing
8-/8
Zrcadlo
Via the “Light Year” route to the ledge. Directly up the wall via 4K to the summit. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Zrcadlo
Right of the “Mirror Flash” route via BH to the ring of the Mirror Edge, over the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8/8+
Zrcadlo
As “Light Year” via K and 2BH, then right via 2K to the ledge. Diagonally right via 5K to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8-/8
Zrcadlo
From the 5th bolt (K) of the “Devil's Sauce” route along the edge (2K) and right to the… Rock Climbing

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