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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4+
Čirtská jehla
On the SW edge by a small pillar/arete, then right by a crack to a platform. From the… Rock Climbing Danger
3
Čirtská jehla
From the saddle by a crack to a large platform and by a crack in the E wall to the summit… Rock Climbing
5+
Čirtská jehla
By a crack in the E wall to a small balcony, diagonally right into a wide crack and along… Rock Climbing Danger
6
Čirtská jehla
To the left of the NE edge by a crack and a wall near the edge over 2 BH to a platform.… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Čirtská jehla
From the large platform to the left of the summit crack of the "Old Route" by a small… Rock Climbing
4+
Kostnice
To the right of the NE edge by a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Textile belay
5
Kostnice
Along the NE edge and from the left with the wall near the edge up to below the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Textile belay +1
6
Čirtská jehla
To the left of the N crack by a wall to K. From there diagonally left to a large platform… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Kostnice
On the E side with a rib near the blunt edge and a wall over BH, finally slightly from… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
4-
Čirtská jehla
From the base of the N wall by a crack to a large platform and like the "Old Route". Rock Climbing
4+
Strážce Čirty
Completely on the right in the plateau (S) wall via a crack to the balcony. Along the… Rock Climbing
4-
Strážce Čirty
Right in the valley wall, using corners diagonally left to the balcony. Left and up the… Rock Climbing
4-
Strážce Čirty
Through the double crack in the valley wall to the chimney of the "Old Route" and follow… Rock Climbing
5+
Strážce Čirty
Left in the valley wall through the corner chimney (K) directly to K of the South Route… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Strážce Čirty
Like the South Route through the crack to the start of the traverse. Further through the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Strážce Čirty
Right of the "Old Route" along the small crack to K, over the overhang and up the wall to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
5
Kostnice
Left in the valley wall via a slightly overhanging corner crack to the balcony. Higher up… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5+
Strážce Čirty
Left of the "Valley Route" through a crack diagonally left and traverse left to K.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Strážce Čirty
Up the chimney in the plateau wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Strážce Čirty
Left of the "North Route" up the wall to K and via a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Strážce Čirty
V-edge over BH into the crack and follow it to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Strážce Čirty
Between "Tidal Wave" and "Wet Crack" to the small pillar. Up the wall over K to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Strážce Čirty
Left of the "Old Route" chimney via cracks, then diagonally left up the wall to the… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Strážce Čirty
As the "Valley Route Variant" to the pillar and up the overhanging wall via 2 BH to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Dešťová věž
Along the right edge of the valley wall into a niche and up the wall diagonally left to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
4-
Dešťová věž
From the platform below the SE face diagonally right up the wall to a small balcony and… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
4+
Dešťová věž
To the left of the left plateau edge, up the wall and crack diagonally left and further… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
2
Dešťová věž
Up the plateau wall to the right to the balcony and up the South face to the right to the… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
3
Dešťová věž
Start like the "Valley Route" into the center of the SW face, from there directly up a… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
2+
Dešťová věž
From the balcony, up the wall to the left into the chimney and up that to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1

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