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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5+
Verdonek
Via the "Skyhoková rošáda" route over the 1st BH to the end of the small corner, right … Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Verdonek
Middle of the wall via a small corner to the 1st BH, over a slight overhang to the 2nd BH… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Verdonek
Through an open chimney in the left part of the S wall over 2BH to the balcony to the 3rd… Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Strašpytel
To the right of the Vysmátý kout route, along the edge to the 1st BH and up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Strašpytel
To the right of the Hek route, through the chimney and corner to K, then along the corner… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Strašpytel
To the right of the Nevratné lahve route from the balcony up the wall, finally slightly… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Strašpytel
To the right of Lek, from the chimney left beyond the edge to the 1st BH. Over the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Verdonek
Start from the chimney of the "Kominárik Janko" route, slightly to the right beyond the… Rock Climbing
5+
Strašpytel
To the right of the chimney from the beech tree, along the edge, later up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8+/9-
Strašpytel
Via the "Lek" route to the 2nd BH, above it traverse left from the hole and directly over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Strašpytel
Left edge of the massif and wall to the right along the edge over 4 BH to the abseil. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Strašpytel
In the middle of the wall, through the corner to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Strážce Dolního Žlebu
From the bolt of the Valley Route, along the edge, then via the crack to the right to the… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Strážce Dolního Žlebu
Directly up the center of the NE face over a bolt to the bolt of the 'East Route'.… Rock Climbing
6-
Strážce Dolního Žlebu
To the left of the bolt, up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Strážce Dolního Žlebu
To the left of Matrix, up the overhanging wall, then higher along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
8+/9-
Strážce Dolního Žlebu
From the terrace, directly up the center of the overhanging wall via 4BH to the summit. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Strážce Dolního Žlebu
From the terrace on the valley side, up the SW wall over an overhang (bolt) and directly… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Strážce Dolního Žlebu
To the left of the 'Tracker' route, difficult into the hole and then easily up the wall… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Strážce Dolního Žlebu
From the terrace on the NE side, up the wall to the hole, then left and up to the ledge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8+/9-
Strážce Dolního Žlebu
To the right of the Matrix route, ascend an overhang to a bolt (BH) and from there… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Strážce Dolního Žlebu
From the terrace on the valley side, ascend the wall diagonally right to a ledge on the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Strážce Dolního Žlebu
To the left of the 'Direct Valley Wall' starting chimney, ascend via the corner, crack,… Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Strážce Dolního Žlebu
From the valley side, ascend via the chimney (as 'Direct Valley Wall') for about 20m into… Rock Climbing
4-
Strážce Dolního Žlebu
From the east, over boulders and up the wall to the fore-summit. Overhang and up the wall… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Strážce Dolního Žlebu
On the east side, onto the rock block and up the opposing chimney between the tower and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Strážce Dolního Žlebu
Crawl between boulders into the chimney in the valley wall and up the center of the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Strážce Dolního Žlebu
Left from the base of the valley wall up the crack for several meters, diagonally right… Rock Climbing
6
Strážce Dolního Žlebu
To the right of the base of the valley wall, ascend via the chimney, then traverse left… Rock Climbing
8+/9-
Strážce Dolního Žlebu
Approach as "Extravarianta" and up the crack to a knot (K.), up the wall over a bolt and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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