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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6
Labské balvany
Up the right valley edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Labské balvany
Up the center of the narrow north wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Labské balvany
In the valley wall from the balcony along the left overhanging edge under the ceiling and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8/8+
Strážce Dolního Žlebu
From the valley up the overhanging edge over a knot (K) and 4 bolts to the terrace. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Hlídač
In the SE wall from the gully in the right part of the wall, left up the wall over 2… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
9/9+
Hlídač
From the gully slightly left over the 1st bolt, higher directly to the second bolt of the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8+/9-
Labské balvany
From the left up the overhanging wall into the indentation to the bolt and directly over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Suchá stěna
Between Hlídač (Guard) and Strážce Dolního Žlebu (Guardian of Lower Gorge) up the SW wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9/9+
Hlídač
from the second bolt of the PodFuck route briefly directly up the wall higher from the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Hlídač
In the SE wall over the overhang, 2 bolts left via a small pinnacle, 3 bolts directly… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8+/9-
Hlídač
From the 2nd bolt of the "Plyšák" (Plush Toy) route, left up the overhanging wall over 3… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
9
Hlídač
Up the overhanging edge in the north wall directly to the 1st bolt, directly to the 2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Suchá stěna
Up the chimney to the wedged boulder and interrupted crack (protection) and edge to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8
Hlídač
In the right part of the valley wall, directly over the overhang via a bolt and up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Dolnožlebská vyhlídka
From the upper ledge in the middle of the S wall along the crack and up the wall (K)… Rock Climbing
8+/9-
Suchá stěna
Up the left edge over 4 bolts to the rappel anchor. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Dolnožlebská vyhlídka
To the left of "Cesty odboje", along the crack to the bolt (K), higher up the wall and… Rock Climbing
6-
Dolnožlebská vyhlídka
Left of the "Pěšák" (Pawn) route, up the wall over K under the overhang, over it and… Rock Climbing
8-/8
Táta
(narrow pillar below the South face of the Dolnožlebská viewpoint) up the wall and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Dolnožlebská vyhlídka
Completely to the right in the S wall, through the corner, higher up the chimney to the… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Suchá stěna
Up the overhanging west wall and diagonally left over 6 bolts to the rappel anchor. Rock Climbing Textile belay
8-/8
Dolnožlebská vyhlídka
From the 1st BH of the "Lahvoň" route, to the right over the overhang to the 2nd BH and… Rock Climbing
8+/9-
Dolnožlebská vyhlídka
"To the right of Třetí nástupiště, along the wall to the ledge and further along the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Dolnožlebská vyhlídka
From the upper ledge, to the right of the "Pěšák" route, along the wall to the 1st BH.… Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Dolnožlebská vyhlídka
From the 1st BH of the Veselé vánoce route, to the right along the small corner/chimney… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8+/9-
Dolnožlebská vyhlídka
Along the wall to the right of Čtvrté nástupiště, directly without the edge and small… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Dolnožlebská vyhlídka
To the left of Čtvrté nástupiště, along the wall to the ledge (sling) and directly along… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Dolnožlebská vyhlídka
In the S wall, along the right crack to the platform with the summit book, further into… Rock Climbing
5
Dolnožlebská vyhlídka
To the left of the "Zlámaná grešle" route, through the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Dolnožlebská vyhlídka
Through the wide chimney to the right in the S wall to the platform with the summit book. Rock Climbing

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