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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6+/7-
Růžová věž
Through the notch at the S edge to the end, traverse right (or via a crack in the S face)… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Růžová věž
To the right of the plateau edge, via the wall and crack over K to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Růžová věž
Along the ledge in the NE face to the right and via the crack to K. Along the edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6+/7-
Růžová věž
From the ring, directly up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
8/8+
Růžová věž
From the Plateau edge, follow the ridge right (beyond the "Pink Dreams" route) to a blunt… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
6+/7-
Růžová věž
From the saddle, traverse right into the NE face to the hole, then up the wall to K.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Růžová věž
Along the plateau edge, over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Růžová věž
Up the plateau edge about 2m to a ledge, up the wall left into a crack and through it to… Rock Climbing
4-
Boule
To the left of the 'Květákov' (Cauliflower) route, up the wall and through the crack to… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Růžová věž
Up the SW-edge via 2 BH to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Boule
To the left in the valley wall via a crack, higher up the sloping pillar/arete diagonally… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Boule
To the left of the start of the 'Rozverná cákalka' (Playful Splasher) route, up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Boule
To the left of the 'Třešnička' (Cherry) route, up the wall via a K. to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Boule
To the right of the Kalich hořkosti (Chalice of Bitterness) route, up the slabby wall (2… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Boule
In the valley wall, up the crack to the end and to the right up the wall to a K. Up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Boule
Start via the 'Rozverná cákalka' (Playful Splasher) route, higher along the edge and up… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Boule
To the left of the 'Skajhůk' (Skyhook) route, through the crack to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Boule
To the left in the N wall over the overhang (K) and directly to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Hadron
To the right of the starting crack of the Mravenčí stezka (Ant Trail) route on Mravenčí… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Hadron
Through the crack in the corner to the left of the Skinny Bitch route. (Eventually, it is… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8-/8
Hadron
From the 1st K of the Skinny Bitch route, from the left along the blunt edge to the 2nd K. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Mravenčí věž
Start in the middle of the small wall, higher up the S edge via 2K to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Mravenčí věž
From the small cave of the "Ant Trail" route, up the crack and right along the small… Rock Climbing
4-
Mravenčí věž
Up the valley wall, traverse left behind the edge, up the crack and edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Mravenčí věž
On the valley side from the base of the wall between the corner and the access crack of… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Mravenčí věž
In the south wall to the right of the Ant Trail crack, up the wall via 2 BH. Left and up… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Mravenčí věž
From J chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
8/8+
Mravenčí věž
Up the crack in the valley wall and left to the 1st BH. Up the wall via 3BH to the summit. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Mravenčí věž
In the valley, up the crack to a small cave over the overhang, up the crack to the… Rock Climbing
8-/8
Proton
In the plateau wall from the chimney with difficulty into the crack and through it via BH… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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