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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

2+
Majdaléna
In the SE wall, by the second crack from the right to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Smeťák
In the left part of the massif, via a small pillar (sokolík) and to the right to BH.… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
6
Kalifornia
On the slope between Majdalena and Smeťák, on the iron massif, up the wall to the right… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Majdaléna
In the left part of the SE wall (from the upper ledge) via a crack over BH and to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Majdaléna
From the upper ledge to the right of the S edge, up the wall over BH to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Majdaléna
To the right of the S edge, along the crack to K, higher up the wall diagonally left… Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Majdaléna
To the right of "Elbe Odyssey" through the corner and right up the wall over 2 K to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun
6-
Majdaléna
In the valley wall, through the corner and crack to the fore-rock (stance). Diagonally… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8-/8
Majdaléna
To the right of the route "Hranostoj", directly up the wall over 3 bolts into the small… Rock Climbing
8/8+
Majdaléna
Right of the Levitace route, up the corner and wall directly over K and 3 BH to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Majdaléna
Along the SW edge to the fore-rock (hourglass) and up the wall to K. Right onto the edge,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8+/9-
Majdaléna
Left of Levitace up the wall directly past the first BH and higher through the crack past… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
8+/9-
Majdaléna
SE wall, right of the "Vtěrka" route, via 6BH. Rock Climbing
10-/10
Majdaléna
Through the center of the S. wall to the left of the route "Hranostoj" (Stoat) over 4… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Majdaléna
Through the prominent corner chimney in the NW wall to the saddle between the summit and… Rock Climbing
8/8+
Majdaléna
To the left of the route "Valley Corner", up the wall (K) to the 1st K of the route … Rock Climbing
7-/7
Majdaléna
Up the "Valley Corner" a few meters and right along the edge over 5 bolts to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Majdaléna
Start in the NW wall, traverse right behind the edge into the valley wall and up to K.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8/8+
Majdaléna
Like 'Hardness Test' to the 3rd ring. Further up the corner and back to the edge to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Majdaléna
From the ledge in the valley wall, diagonally left to the bolt and directly up through… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Majdaléna
From the upper ledge in the S wall, along the edge to the left of the route "Brutality to… Rock Climbing
6-
Majdaléna
From the upper ledge in the S wall, to the left of the large corner, via the crack and… Rock Climbing
8-/8
Majdaléna
From the upper ledge in the S wall, through the center of the wall via K and BH to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Majdaléna
To the left of Rehabilitation, along the crack and along the fissures for rappelling.. Rock Climbing Textile belay
8+/9-
Majdaléna
Between the routes Narcosis and Tar Man, along the edge above, directly via the asphalt… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Majdaléna
In the left part of the massif, to the left of the corner, directly up the wall via a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Majdaléna
From the balcony to the left of the route, like a fool, along the pyrite wall and along… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Majdaléna
In the left part of the massif, along the green wall to the left of the blunt edge,… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Pod drnem
In the N face to the right over a large pyrite concretion (2BH) and up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Pod drnem
In the N face to the left (BH) and to the right over the pyrite to the anchor. Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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