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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

7-/7
Proton
From the start of the 'Náhorní spára' route, left and up the middle of the wall between… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Mravenčí věž
On the valley side to the left of the crack, up the wall of the 1st ring of the Ant Trail… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8/8+
Mravenčí věž
From the terrace below Mravenčí wall, traverse left in the valley wall to the ledge at… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Proton
From the terrace of the 'Nic moc' route, up the middle of the valley (S) wall via K,… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Mravenčí věž
On the valley side from the base of the wall up a prominent left corner gully (loops) to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Proton
Along the edge via BH and K to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
6
Proton
In the left part of the valley wall, up the corner crack over two overhangs to the summit. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Proton
From the 1st BH of the 'Kluci z Labáku' route directly up the wall via 4 BH to abseil. Rock Climbing Textile belay
9/9+
Proton
Right of the start of 'Spark of Hope', from the ledge straight up the wall via BH to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Proton
Up the valley wall diagonally right via 3BH and then straight up via the 4th BH to the… Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Proton
Left of the 'Half-life' route up the wall via 5BH to the abseil BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
9/9+
Eňo ňuňo
Via the "Always dissatisfied" route over the BH and above it traverse over the BH of the … Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+/8-
Eňo ňuňo
To the right of "Madness" directly over the overhang to the BH, up the wall slightly from… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Proton
Left of the 'Spark of Hope' route up the wall and edge via 7 BH to abseil. Rock Climbing Textile belay
8+/9-
Eňo ňuňo
Overhanging wall directly over the BH to the rappel station. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8+/9-
Proton
To the right of the plateau crack, up the corner into the ledge (loop) and directly up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9/9+
Proton
Left part of the NW wall (left of the "Half-Time No-Time" route) over 2 BH to the balcony… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8-/8
Eňo ňuňo
In the right part of the wall, up the wall and overhang to the BH, up the wall into the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+/8-
Eňo ňuňo
In the middle of the wall directly over the BH to the rappel station. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Smeťák
Up the wall (BH) and a crack to the 2nd BH. Higher, traverse left to the rappel anchor K. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Smeťák
To the left of the "Drtikol" route, up a crack and wall (protection) to the right into a… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Smeťák
In the lower right part of the massif, via the right crack, up the wall to BH, then from… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8-/8
Eňo ňuňo
- massif fifty meters above Táta. In the left part of the massif, up the edge directly… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Smeťák
Start under the overhang and up the right edge to the rappel anchor K. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Eňo ňuňo
Up the right part of the wall (ring) over the overhang (2nd ring) and further up the wall… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8-/8
Smeťák
Up the center of the wall over 3BH directly to the rappel anchor K. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
3
Majdaléna
In the SE wall, by the third or fourth crack from the right to the top. Rock Climbing
2+
Majdaléna
In the right part of the SE wall, by the first crack from the right to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Smeťák
Follow the "Střepina" route to BH. Slightly left up the wall over the 2nd BH to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8+/9-
Smeťák
From the balcony, difficult overhanging edge in the ledge, up the wall to the right to… Rock Climbing Textile belay

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