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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4-
Koudelka
Up the Z face to a ledge on the receding edge and then a slab to the left of the edge … Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Koudelka
From the NW along the edge, later to its left up a slab to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
5
Koudelka
Between the route Středem and Faux pas, up the face to the summit. (abseil) Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Koudelka
Easily to the summit on the E side. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
2+
Koudelka
In the plateau face to the right of the Old Road to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Pedrova naděje
To the left of the Old Road along the prominent W ridge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Koudelka
Along the left plateau ridge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Pedrova naděje
Overhanging E ridge via iron pyrite to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5+
Koudelka
In the right part of the plateau side, along the gently sloping curved edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Laid wall
2
Pedrova naděje
Pedro's Hope (new small tower near Koudelka) From the SW plateau face and rib to the… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
4+
Pedrova naděje
2m to the right of Jednoprstovka, from the left into the indentation and up it to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Pedrova naděje
4m to the right of the Plateau ridge, up the center of the SE face to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Pedrova naděje
Along the plateau (S) ridge to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
6
Kamenný mužík
Left of the "Poprvé na prvním" (First Time on the First) route, directly up a small wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
Přeskok
Malá skříň
From the South, a leap from the massif to the top of the tower. Rock Climbing
6
Loď mrtvých
To the left below the start of 'Česačů bavlny', briefly through a corner (piton) and left… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Textile belay
4+
Loď mrtvých
About 4 m as 'Kareta' and right through the corner and crack, partly via a small slab to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Textile belay
6
Loď mrtvých
5 m right of the start of 'Česačů bavlny' up the corners to the 1st K. Over the overhang… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Textile belay
6-
Loď mrtvých
On the W side of the main massif in the SW corner, up the left gully below the overhang.… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Textile belay
6
Loď mrtvých
On the W side, up a prominent corner over the 1st K to a small pillar. Up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
4+
Loď mrtvých
From the cave to the right above the start of 'Noční návštěva v buši', up the wall and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Textile belay
5+
Loď mrtvých
From the start of 'Lékař banditů' to the left behind the edge to the ledge. Up the wall… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Loď mrtvých
As 'Cihlář' to the ledge and along it to the left to K. Up the rib below the roof. Over… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Textile belay
2+
Loď mrtvých
Completely on the left of the massif, left edge or wall (photo) Rock Climbing Textile belay
9/9+
Loď mrtvých
About 3 m left of the 'Land of Spring' route, up the smooth wall using the right edge… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
4+
Zelená víla
To the left of the 'Absinthe Drinkers' route, up a small wall into a crack, along it and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Zelená víla
On the left edge of the bivouac along the blunt edge to 1st K, upwards along the small… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
5+
De Bill
On the east side from the base of the middle pillar, diagonally left through corners to K… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
6+/7-
De Bill
On the middle pillar, through the corners several meters to the left, upwards and along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
6
Hrbolatá stěna
Bumpy wall (massif next to Pi-tschus) In the center of the massif via a corner to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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