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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6-
Lukostřelec
Up the overhanging W edge via K to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Lukostřelec
From the gully, traverse right along the ledge behind the W edge and up the face to the… Rock Climbing
2+
Lukostřelec
Along the plateau edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Pizzerie
Up the wall along the left edge (bolt) to the ledge to the 2nd bolt. Up the wall directly… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Pizzerie
About 4m to the right of the Popina route, up the retreating chimney a few meters to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Pizzerie
To the right of the Rocker route, up the wall and rib to the balcony and up the wall to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8+/9-
Pizzerie
Up the overhanging wall directly to the 1st bolt of the Rocker route and along that to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Pizzerie
About 5m to the right of the Finferlona route, up the wall and along the crack to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay Danger
5
Amatérský masiv
In the right part of the massif, up the small wall and crack over the bolt to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Amatérský masiv
Along the valley edge, to the left of the "Insertion" route, over the piton to the summit. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Pizzerie
To the left of Rocker, up the prominent edge (loop) to the top of the pillar and from… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Fujara
Along the valley edge over two bolts to the summit to the rappel station (SBH). Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Amatérský masiv
Along the blunt edge over the bolt to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Fujara
To the left in the valley wall directly over two bolts and up to the rappel station (SBH). Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Fujara
To the right of the "Cat in the Oven" route, up the small wall to the bolt and further… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8/8+
Kulíšek
In the middle of the valley wall directly to the 1st bolt, along the flutes to the 2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8+/9-
Kulíšek
Via the "Prague Demon" route to the 2nd bolt and directly over another bolt to the ledge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Obývák
Up the center of the valley wall over 4 bolts and slightly left to the rappel bolt. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
6
Obývák
From the gully, up the left edge over 4 bolts to the rappel bolt. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
6+/7-
Obývák
Up the wall to the left of the "hiker's guide to Labák" edge, directly over 4 rings into… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Obývák
From the gully to the left of the "TV MIX" route, along the right edge of the crack, up… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8+/9-
Kulíšek
In the right part of the valley wall to the balcony and up the wall directly over the 1st… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9/9+
Kulíšek
To the right of the "Prague Demon" route, up the wall (3 bolts), from the right into the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Kulíšek
Up the valley wall directly to 2 bolts on the right and through a crack under the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
9/9+
Saský skanzen
Overhanging edge to the rappel station of the "Dušičky" (All Souls' Day) route. Rock Climbing
4-
Střípek
From the fore-summit, descend briefly through a chimney, traverse into the S face to a… Rock Climbing
3
Střípek
Jump from the massif to the summit. Rock Climbing
9/9+
Saský skanzen
In the left part of the overhanging wall above Střípek directly over the bolt to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Saský skanzen
Overhanging edge directly over the bolt to the rappel station. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9+
Saský skanzen
Overhanging slab to the right of the Bordel route, over 2 bolts to the rappel station. Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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