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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5+
Valdštejnská stěna
In the left part of the S wall via the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Orgonit
Over the overhang into the chimney, through it and up the wall along the edge (BH), then… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Orgonit
Up the wall to the overhang and via the crack to the ring, along the blunt edge and up… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Orgonit
In the right part of the massif, to the right of the chimney, up the wall over 2 BH from… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Valdštejnská stěna
From the ravine by Crystal, up the wall and corner to the edge, over the overhang to a… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Valdštejnská stěna
Up the center of the S wall over 3K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8-/8
Dámský masiv
In the central part of the massif, from the terrace to the right of the route … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8+/9-
Dámský masiv
In the middle of the central massif (to the right of the crack), directly up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7+/8-
Dámský masiv
Through the corner in the middle of the massif and from there directly over 2 BH to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7+/8-
Dámský masiv
Start in the right part of the massif along the edge of the pillar, further left up the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7+/8-
Dámský masiv
In the left part of the West face, to the left of the route "Pravidelná dávka emocí" … Rock Climbing Route in shadow Danger +1
4+
Dámský masiv
In the left part of the NW face, up the prominent corner to the balcony and further to… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
7-/7
Pod Prasečí skálou
To the right of the route "Dveře od chlévá" (Barn Door) up the wall (7 BH) to the rappel… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
7-/7
Pod Prasečí skálou
From the 2nd BH of the route "Šťastný jako prase" (Happy as a Pig), traverse right to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
9/9+
Pod Prasečí skálou
Between the routes "Vrata od chlévá" (Barn Door) and "Hozená rukavička" (Thrown Gauntlet)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Pod Prasečí skálou
Over the overhang to the edge and over 5K to the top. Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Pod Prasečí skálou
To the left of the route "Hozená rukavička" (Thrown Gauntlet) over the overhang (K) and… Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Pod Prasečí skálou
Difficultly up the wall directly into the 'Dva čuníci jdou' route and then to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
9/9+
Pod Prasečí skálou
from the first ring of the route "Swede and Swede" diagonally left to the BH, from the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8+/9-
Pod Prasečí skálou
Through the center of the North wall via 4 bolts to the summit. Rock Climbing
9/9+
Pod Prasečí skálou
Left of the 'Nevermind' route via 3 bolts to the summit. Rock Climbing
8-/8
Pod Prasečí skálou
In the right part of the South face, up the wall to the 1st K. Up the crack over 3K and… Rock Climbing
10-/10
Pod Prasečí skálou
Traverse to the BH and directly up the wall into the route "Nevermind" and by that to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8-/8
Prďolův masiv
Left of 'Půťka' up the wall below the overhang and along the sharp edge directly over the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Prďolův masiv
Through the center of the South wall via a short crack and up the wall via 2K to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Prďolův masiv
Along the right edge in the South wall via K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Prďolův masiv
Left of the 'Dobrou chuť' route, up the overhanging crack (protection) higher along the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+/8-
Prďolův masiv
Up the wall left of the 'Zápaďácká cesta' chimney directly to the 1st bolt, up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8+/9-
Popelník
Up the wall over two bolts into a crack and through that (protected) to the rappelling… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Altán
To the right of the route 'Woodward', up a small wall over 2 bolts to the rappelling bolt. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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