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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

8-/8
Popelník
Along the rounded edge directly into the chimney and from there left to the 2nd bolt of… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Popelník
Left of the 'Sirotek' route, through the center of the valley wall directly to the 1st… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Altán
To the right in the NW wall, from the lower terrace along the edge, higher diagonally… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Altán
To the right of the route 'Měkosrdcaté tele' (Soft-hearted Calf), up a small wall over 2… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Belveder
To the right on the S side from the stairs by the terrace. Between the routes 'Boulder'… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Belveder
Up the center of the S wall (3 bolts) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Altán
In the left part of the massif, up a small wall over a ring to the rappelling bolt. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8+/9-
Altán
On the lower valley terrace to the right, up the overhanging W wall (BH), higher over an… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Belveder
In the left part of the S wall over 4 bolts to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
8/8+
Belveder
In the valley wall, via a small pinnacle over a bolt and hourglass (thread), right over… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Belveder
Between the routes 'Boulder' and 'Saša jede' over 3 bolts to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8+/9-
Belveder
Briefly through a crack and along a blunt edge in the valley wall to hourglass (threads)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8+/9-
Belveder
Up the center of the valley wall over 2 bolts, higher along the edge to hourglass … Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Belveder
In the right part of the valley wall, through a crack and over an overhang up the wall to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Belveder
From the balcony, traverse into the wall, traverse right into a crack and via that to the… Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Belveder
From the bolt of the route 'Prima Crack' directly over the overhang and up the wall to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Belveder
To the right of the original start of the route 'Severozápadní spára' (Northwest Crack)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Belveder
Short wall at the base of the NW face of the massif. In the right part of the wall (BH). Rock Climbing Textile belay
8-/8
Belveder
Along the right edge directly over the bolt to the rappelling point. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9/9+
Belveder
In the NW wall, from a block or chimney, briefly to the right and over the roof past two… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9/9+
Belveder
Short wall at the base of the NW face of the massif. Up the wall past the 1st bolt,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8+/9-
Belveder
Along the left valley edge over 2 bolts, through the roof past the 3rd bolt to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Belveder
Briefly along the right edge and diagonally left through an overhanging crack (slings) to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Belveder
From the boulder (to the right of the 'Around the World' route) over 2 BH (bolt hangers)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Hovádko boží
To the right of the 'Keyless Key' route, via a small wall directly to the balcony via… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Belveder
Start as 'NW Crack' and up the wall over 2 BH (bolt hangers) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Hovádko boží
From the hiking path via a crack to the balcony and via a small corner to the summit. … Rock Climbing Textile belay
8/8+
Hovádko boží
In the right part of the valley face to the pillar via a green stripe over 2 BH (bolt… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6+/7-
Belveder
From the original start of the 'Northwest Crack' route, via a short rib to the end,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Belveder
In the left part of the NW face over 3 BH (bolt hangers) to the abseil point. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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