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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5+
Hovádko boží
Via a small corner to the balcony in the valley face and along the left edge to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8+/9-
Hovádko boží
From the lowest point of the right edge, via the overhanging edge directly over a BH … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Hovádko boží
Up the wall along the right valley edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
8+/9-
Hovádko boží
To the right of the start of the 'Princely Route', via a corner to the right to a ledge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Sarajevská stěna
From the balcony below the original start of the 'Higher Power' route, up the wall over a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2+
Sarajevská stěna
On the left in the plateau wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Hovádko boží
To the right of the 'Thin Line of Humanity' route, via a crack and gully to the summit. … Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Hovádko boží
Approx. 3m to the right of the 'Valley Corner' crack, via the left crack and wall over… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Sarajevská stěna
Via a prominent corner in the right part of the S face to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Sarajevská stěna
Via the corner in the SE face to the catwalk, 3m up to another catwalk. Traverse right… Rock Climbing
5
Sarajevská stěna
In the left part of the SE face via a corner and chimney to the terrace, easily to… Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Sarajevská stěna
To the left of the 'Southern Corner' route, via the overhanging wall directly over 2 BH … Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Sarajevská stěna
Briefly as 'Sharp Corner', traverse left into the crack and via that to the ledge.… Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Sarajevská stěna
Up the wall to the right of 'Blue Monday', via a crack and iron-streaked wall to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Sarajevská stěna
The route runs to the right of the 'Invalid Crack' route. The route starts higher up on… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Sarajevská stěna
Overhanging wall to the Triumf route and via that to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Sarajevská stěna
From the terrace on the West side, up the wall along the left edge via a ring bolt… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Sarajevská stěna
In the right part of the valley wall, via an indistinct edge over 4 BHs under the… Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Sarajevská stěna
In the valley wall to the right of "Sarajevo 84", up the wall over a roof and higher up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Sarajevská stěna
Left along the South edge under the overhang, traverse behind the edge to the 1st K.… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Sarajevská stěna
To the right of the South edge, via a small crack and a crack leading diagonally right,… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Sarajevská stěna
Via the ring bolt of the "Notch in the Stock" route into the notch and further along… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Sarajevská stěna
To the left of the "Seven Bullets" route, via a small edge and wall to the balcony … Rock Climbing
6-
Sarajevská stěna
From the penultimate (9th BH), traverse right through a distinct notch, slightly left to… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Sarajevská stěna
In the North wall from the lower balcony, traverse right and through the middle of the… Rock Climbing
6
Sarajevská stěna
Follow the "8 Bullets" route up to the pulpit. From the pulpit, right to the edge. Along… Rock Climbing
6-
Sarajevská stěna
In the middle of the West wall, via a crack over a large overhang to its end. Diagonally… Rock Climbing
6
Sarajevská stěna
In the North wall, via the second crack veering left, to the balcony (station). Traverse … Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Sarajevská stěna
To the left of the "Sarajevo 84" route, via a crack and an edge over 4 BHs to the 6th BH… Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Sarajevská stěna
In the NW wall via a corner to the balcony (belay station) higher up, briefly via a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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