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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6+/7-
Stěna bratří Weingartlů
On the upper left massive wall, immediately to the left of the Hřích route, via 2 BH to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Disneyland
The last route to the right of the central massif, along the right edge over the 3rd bh. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9/9+
Disneyland
From the 2nd BH of the "Pí" route directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Disneyland
Right edge of the central massif to the first bh, traverse left over bh to the rappel bh. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Disneyland
To the left of Rychlá rota (Chip 'n Dale Rescue Rangers), from the first bh via an… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Disneyland
Right edge of the central massif over 1bh to the rappel bh. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Venušin pahorek
Through the Sokolík (small chimney/gully), higher up the face (BH) over an overhang and a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8/8+
Disneyland
Up the face to the right of the "Lion King" route directly over 2 BH and higher from the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8+/9-
Disneyland
From the 1bh of the Mowgli route, further right over 2bh to the rappel bh. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Disneyland
Approach from the lower balcony. Through the middle of the face over 5bh to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Disneyland
Central left crack to the rappel bh of the Baloo route. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Disneyland
From the 1bh of the Kid route, further left over another 2bh. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Disneyland
To the right of the Rebecca route, directly up the face over 2bh to the rappel bh in the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Disneyland
In the west face from the belay Bh to the right over 4Bh new variant (straightening from… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Disneyland
To the right of the Hopsinková šťáva (Cranberry Juice) route, via the blunt edge over 2bh… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Disneyland
To the right of the Kid route directly over 2 bh to the rappel bh. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Disneyland
Approach in the central part of the massif, over an overhang via 3bh to the rappel bh. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Disneyland
In the left part of the lower balcony from the belay bh directly over 2 bh to the rappel… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Disneyland
To the left of the Monty Jack route, over 3bh to the rappel bh. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Disneyland
From the 1st bh of the Rampa McQuack route to the 2nd bh of the Winnie the Pooh route and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Disneyland
In the left part of the west face, over 3bh to the rappel bh. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Disneyland
In the right part of the west face from the belay bh over 3bh to the rappel bh. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Disneyland
In the right part of the north face, over 2bh to the rappel bh. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Zlomisková stěna
Access completely from the right of the massif, from the ledge, via the central slab… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8/8+
Zlomisková stěna
In the right part of the massif, up the wall to the left of the route 'Kruci …písek !' … Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Zlomisková stěna
Access completely from the right of the massif, from the ledge to the left of the ATOMIC… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Zlomisková stěna
To the left of the ATOMIC BLONDE route via a crack to the ring, and further from the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+/8-
Zlomisková stěna
To the left of the route 'Clownery' directly over a BH to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Zlomisková stěna
In the S face by a crack (2BH) and further over 2BH of the route 'Swine Flu' to the… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Zlomisková stěna
Access completely from the right of the massif, from the ledge, via the valley edge, over… Rock Climbing Textile belay

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