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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

8-/8
Zlomisková stěna
To the right of the Zlomiskovy Tower on the slope, through the middle of the block via BH… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Zlomisková stěna
To the left of the route 'Hunting Season' difficult to the BH and further over 2 BH to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Zlomisková stěna
To the right of the route 'Horse Carriage' through a corner crack over 2 BH to the rappel… Rock Climbing Textile belay
9
Zlomisková stěna
From the 4th BH of the route 'Beatport', right up the face to the rappel point (CRUCIAL… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+/8-
Zlomisková stěna
Along the South edge over 3 BH right and further through the middle of the face over a BH… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Zlomisková stěna
To the left of Zlomisková Tower up the face over a BH to a ledge and over 2 BH to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Zlomisková stěna
Immediately to the left of Zlomisková Tower briefly through a chimney, then along the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Zlomyslná stěna
Together with the route 'Bad Boy' to the 3rd BH. Slightly right up the face over the 4th… Rock Climbing Textile belay
9/9+
Zlomyslná stěna
Via the route 'Thy Will Be Done' to the rocking stone and from the right up the face… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Zlomyslná stěna
From the corner between the Zlomyslná and Zlomisková faces, left up a small wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Zlomyslná stěna
To the left of the route 'With Gusto' through the middle of the overhanging face over a K… Rock Climbing
6
Zlomyslná stěna
Along the NW edge to the crack. Through it, higher up to the right behind the edge by a… Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Zlomyslná stěna
Up the face over the BH into a wide crack and further over the K to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Zlomyslná stěna
Through the middle of the valley (W) face into the sokolík (small arête), through it and… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Horyna
From the balcony to the right of the crack of the 'Unrequited Love' route, difficultly up… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8+/9-
Zlomyslná stěna
To the right in the E wall from the balcony, up a short wall section (BH) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
7+/8-
Zlomyslná stěna
From the balcony along the left edge of the north face directly over 4 BH to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8+/9-
Zlomyslná stěna
In the middle of the S face by a crack (2K), higher up the face over a ledge and the 3rd… Rock Climbing
6-
Zlomyslná stěna
On the E face from the balcony by a crack, via the sokolík (small arête) and in the right… Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall
9+
Zlomyslná stěna
In the left part of the S face, directly over the 1st BH and right to the 2nd BH. Up the… Rock Climbing
8+/9-
Zlomyslná stěna
Along the sokolík (small arête) to the BH and right into the crack of the route 'Key… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Horyna
Over the overhang and up the edge, higher up to the right to the rappel point of the … Rock Climbing Textile belay
9+
Zlomyslná stěna
From the second bolt (K) of the route 'Key Steps' directly up the face to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7+/8-
Horyna
In the right part of the massif, up the crack and further from the left up the wall via… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8+/9-
Horyna
From the left over the ledge to the 1st BH and directly over the 2nd BH of the … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Horyna
Up the blunt edge directly into the notch and through it to the rappel point. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Horyna
Up the overhanging crack in the middle of the north wall below the overhang and from the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Skopík
Up the slightly overhanging E wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Skopík
From the valley, up the SW chimney, higher up the left plateau edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Skopík
Through the middle of the valley wall (hourglasses) and directly over the overhangs to… Rock Climbing Textile belay

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