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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6
Horyna
Up the wide crack to the right of the 'Robot' route to the rappel point. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Horyna
Left of the route 'Robot' up the wall via 2 BH to the rappel point. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Skopík
Through the middle of the plateau wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
8+/9-
Kolega
Up the overhanging N wall directly (1BH) into the notch, left and along the edge directly… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Skopík
Up the right plateau edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
8-/8
Kolega
In the W wall, through the middle of the narrow wall section (BH) to the rappel point. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8/8+
Kolega
Up the overhanging N edge directly over the second BH of the John Deer route to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Kolega
In the W wall, left via the shallow dihedral and right over the ledge to the rappel point. Rock Climbing Textile belay
8+/9-
Cross
Up the overhanging wall directly above the stream over 3 bolts to the top. Rock Climbing
9+
Kámen
From the stairs above the stream near Malý Růžový, directly over the overhanging edge via… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Konec světa
Left of route 'Poslední cigáro' (Last Cigarette) up the wall (4 BH) to the rappel point. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7+/8-
Kámen
Over the overhanging edge via BH to the rappel point. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Konec světa
In the right part of the valley wall under the small roof (K), by rolling out to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Konec světa
In the left part of the valley wall directly via 4 BH to the rappel point. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Malá růžová
Up the middle of the W wall (2 bolts) under the overhang and right to the edge to the 2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Malá růžová
To the right of Dívčí škola (Girls' School), along the edge to the end of the crack and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
9/9+
Malá růžová
To the left in the W wall (4 bolts) to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8+/9-
Malá růžová
From the 2nd bolt of the “Small Paradise” route, directly over the overhang (2 bolts) to… Rock Climbing
6
Malá růžová
Up the right edge of the W wall (3 bolts) to the rappel. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Malá růžová
Up the middle of the S wall of the right pillar (4 bolts) over the overhang to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Malá růžová
In the SE wall (3 bolts) to the rappel. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Malá růžová
Between the routes Small Paradise and And so on, directly up the wall under the overhang… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Hříbeček
Along the right valley edge, following a delicate crack higher up from the right along… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Hříbeček
Up the middle of the wall over 3 rings to the rappel anchor. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Malá růžová
Up the left edge of the W wall (2 bolts) to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8+/9-
Malá růžová
From the bivouac to the right, directly up the wall (2 bolts) to the rappel. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8+/9-
Malá růžová
To the left of Small Pink, from the bivouac from the handhold directly over the overhang … Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
7+/8-
Hříbeček
In the valley wall, to the right of the crack of the Pendolino route, directly along the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Hříbeček
To the right of the route “Unfortunately” over 2 rings to the rappel anchor. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
9/9+
Hříbeček
In the valley wall, up the chimney to the balcony and left to the first bolt. From there,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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