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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

7/7+
Tajemství
Left of the cave entrance through the chimney to the balcony and from its lowest part up… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Tajemství
From the valley to the left of the "Levá klasika" (Left Classic) route (right of the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Tajemství
From the entrance to Pytlácká Cave, up the chimney under the overhang, traverse right… Rock Climbing
6
Koruna jeskyně
To the right massif in the middle of the wall over a circle and slightly left to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Koruna jeskyně
To the right massif along the left rounded edge over 2 BH to the summit at SBH. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Koruna jeskyně
Right of the Old Path, along the edge and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Tajemství
From the balcony along the edge to the top of the boulder and from there up the wall to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Koruna jeskyně
Right in the plateau wall to the ledge, up the wall, then left or right to the summit. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Koruna jeskyně
North wall directly over the circle to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Koruna jeskyně
N wall diagonally right into the crack and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Koruna jeskyně
From the block at the entrance to the Robber's Cave with a pull-up into the crack and… Rock Climbing
6-
Koruna jeskyně
In the center of the W wall with a pull-up and traverse, higher up the wall over two… Rock Climbing
6-
Koruna jeskyně
On the valley side, diagonally right up the wall to the edge and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing
9/9+
Koruna jeskyně
Left of Vesna, directly over the overhang via bh and above it along the edge to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Koruna jeskyně
Valley wall over 2BH to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Koruna jeskyně
About 2m right of the 'Valley Path' crack, through a crack in an open corner to the… Rock Climbing
4+
Koruna jeskyně
Easy wall, then about 2m left of the S edge up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Koruna jeskyně
On the valley side via an easy wall, then left via a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Horní jeskynní věž
In the N wall via a crack and wall to K, left to the ledge and smooth wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Horní jeskynní věž
(Old Path variant) From the plateau side through a crack and wall to the pillar. Like the… Rock Climbing
6-
Koruna jeskyně
(Path to the pedestal) Left in the north wall along the edge and over an overhang to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Koruna jeskyně
Left valley edge (2K) to the pedestal and freely to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Koruna jeskyně
In the right part of the N wall via a crack to the pedestal and freely to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Koruna jeskyně
Right of the Zdar route, through the hole via a crack right to the circle. Up the wall to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Horní jeskynní věž
Variant Expo 41 from the circle of the Expo 64 route directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Horní jeskynní věž
Overhanging NW edge directly over BH, then higher via the old path to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Horní jeskynní věž
Left of var. For demanding climbers, wall directly to the pillar, above St. Path. Rock Climbing
5
Horní jeskynní věž
From the south chimney to the pillar in the valley wall. (By standing) onto the ledge,… Rock Climbing
8-/8
Horní jeskynní věž
To the left of the route, a direct line up the slabby wall below the overhang and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2+
Horní jeskynní věž
Through the chimney or crack to the pillar at the NE edge. Step over and up the edge to… Rock Climbing

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