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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

8-/8
Dolní jeskynní věž
in the valley wall over two BHs to the ledge and from the right to the balcony to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Dolní jeskynní věž
In the north face from the balcony over the overhang BH and over 3 BH. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Prales Boubín
Through a prominent crack in the middle of the massif to the summit for rappelling. Rock Climbing Textile belay
8-/8
Dolní jeskynní věž
In the valley wall along the interrupted crack (2K) into the hole and up the wall (2K) to… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Prales Boubín
In the right part of the massif, to the right of the crack, traverse the wall (2 BH)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Dolní jeskynní věž
From the 1st BH of the "Palmovka" route, from the right, loop to the 2nd BH, directly… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7+/8-
Kaplička
Along the left edge of the N wall directly (2BH) left and briefly up the crack, then… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Věž Rudolfa Hankeho
Along the left valley edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Věž Rudolfa Hankeho
Up the center of the valley (W) wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Věž Rudolfa Hankeho
To the left in the W wall upwards and left along the N edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
8/8+
Kaplička
In the north, in the middle to the right (2BH) and further directly (3BH) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4-
Věž Rudolfa Hankeho
Up the center of the plateau wall via the small chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Věž Rudolfa Hankeho
To the right of the plateau wall, up the small wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
8-/8
Brut
To the right in the valley wall, along the edge directly over BH to the ledge, from the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Věž Rudolfa Hankeho
Up the wall near the NW edge, over BH to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2+
Věž Rudolfa Hankeho
Along the left plateau edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
8/8+
Brut
To the right of Vakcína, directly over 3 BH into the ledge and from the left over BH from… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8+/9-
Brut
To the left of Bludiště (Labyrinth), from the small balcony, directly up the middle of… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7+/8-
Brut
In the left part of the valley wall, from the small balcony over 2 BHs into the notch,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Brut
To the left of the "Vaccine" route, ascend a small wall, then traverse right to a ledge,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Brut
Up the karren wall from S via BH to the ledge. Further up the wall via K of the route … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Brut
From the platform to the left of the route "Silk Road", via a crack and up the wall over… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Brut
In the left part of the massif, via a notch to the balcony, right into the crack to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Žížův masiv
In the South wall from the slope, traverse left under the overhang to the edge. Over the… Rock Climbing
9+
Žížův masiv
Completely to the right in the wall, via a fine crack to the right edge and along it over… Rock Climbing
9/9+
Žížův masiv
From the crack of the route "Aggression" left to the 1st BH. Up the wall and over the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8+/9-
Brut
In the North wall, from the small balcony right to the BH, up the wall diagonally right… Rock Climbing
8-/8
Žížův masiv
Via a delicate narrow gully (BH) and the edge of the drill hole to the ledge to the 3rd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Žížův masiv
In the West wall, through the middle of the breakthrough, up the wall, through the corner… Rock Climbing
6
Žížův masiv
To the left of the route "Hi-chi-ki-ri-di-ti-ni" along the edge via BH to the balcony.… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay

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