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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

9+
Děčínská věž
Up the right valley edge over 6BH to the summit. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Děčínská věž
At the left valley edge, via the falcon and wall over BH to K of the "Valley Route". Up… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Děčínská věž
From the hole above the K crack directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Děčínská věž
Through a crack in the north face, higher up by the "Old Route" to the summit. Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Děčínská věž
By the "Old Route" to the detached block and up the wall through a ring, slightly… Rock Climbing
6-
Děčínská věž
From the crack in the S wall, traverse right to the valley wall to K. Through the crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Děčínská věž
Along the NE edge to the balcony, over the detached block to the right into a crack and… Rock Climbing
5
Děčínská věž
By the "Old Route" to the balcony and further along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Špína
Through a crack in the middle of the wall over 2 BHs to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
9+
Špína
To the left of the "Ashram Pachranga" route, via 4 BH to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
8+/9-
Špína
To the right of Porna, straight over two BHs to the rappel. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Špína
To the right in the corner over 1 BH into the Basket Flora route. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
La fabrika
Through the overhanging valley wall and to the right into the notch, higher up via ledges… Rock Climbing
8+/9-
La fabrika
Along the right valley edge directly to the rappel point. Rock Climbing
8-/8
Špína
Along the left edge over 2 BHs to the shared rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
8+/9-
Špína
In the right part of the valley wall over a block and an overhang to the first bolt and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9/9+
Špína
From the block (2 bolts) to the rappel station of the 'Inglourious Basterds' route. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
9+
Špína
Through the center of the north face from the right to the summit via the fourth BH of… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8+/9-
Špína
Up the wall to the left of 'Utahnul' directly to the rappel station. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
7+/8-
Špína
Along the left edge and right into the ledge to the bolt, from there right via the arête… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9/9+
Špína
To the left of Humidity, through a crack and wall over three BHs and a rappel point to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8+/9-
Špína
In the left part of the north face via 4BH to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Špína
In the left part of the NW wall, through a crack to the rappel. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Lomikámen
Via the crack in the S wall to the K, up the wall about 5m, then diagonally left to the… Rock Climbing
6-
Lomikámen
Start via the 'Master Gnome' route, right onto the edge and along it over (bolt) to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
2+
Lomikámen
Via the grooves in the upland wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Lomikámen
Via the left upland edge directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
8-/8
Lomikámen
Through the middle of the SE wall over 4 bolts to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Lomikámen
From the East via a narrow chimney to the terrace and straight up the route to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Lomikámen
From the upland side, right behind the edge and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing

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