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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

8/8+
Žížův masiv
To the right of the edge, through the corner via 2 BHs to the balcony. Rock Climbing
8+/9-
Žížův masiv
To the right of the route Biomasa (BH) directly to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Danger
8+/9-
Žížův masiv
Via the 'Path for a Rogue' to the balcony. Slightly left up the wall via 3 BHs under the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9/9+
Žížův masiv
Right of Aggression, via the narrow gully and wall and overhangs to the 1st BH, directly… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Žížův masiv
Like the route "Path for a Rogue" to the balcony and left up the wall via 2 BHs to the K.… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
8+/9-
Žížův masiv
Below the breakthrough in the valley wall, directly along the edge over two BHs and an… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Žížův masiv
From the base of the massif in the large corner, up the right crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Žížův masiv
Via the route "These Forks" to the ledge, up to the K. Up the wall via BH and crack to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8+/9-
Žížův masiv
Up the middle of the wall directly via 3 BHs to the ring of the route "Dance in the Dark"… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6+/7-
Žížův masiv
Via the route "Mazel Faun", higher up traverse right along the ledge to the edge and up… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
5
Žížův masiv
From the base of the massif in the large corner, up the left crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Žížův masiv
To the left of the route "Like a Calf at the Gate" up the wall under the overhang, via 2… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8+/9-
Žížův masiv
Up the wall over the overhang via 3 BHs from the left to the edge via BH into the Drunken… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Žížův masiv
From the base of the massif, left in the large corner, up the iron-stained wall over 2BH… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
8/8+
Žížův masiv
From the left part of the massif, from the balcony, from the corner opposite the route … Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8/8+
Žížův masiv
Up the valley edge of the left part of the massif from the balcony, along the edge over 4… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8+/9-
Žížův masiv
Right of the route "Skousnutý nástup" up the wall over 3 BH to the rappel anchor. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
7+/8-
Žížův masiv
From the base of the massif to the right of the route "Hrochárna" over 3BH to the rappel… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Děčínská věž
Through the middle of the east wall along the edge 1st BH and up the wall 2nd, 3rd BH to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Děčínská věž
Via the "Old Route" to the balcony, traverse left into the crack and up that to the… Rock Climbing
5+
Žížův masiv
From the base of the massif, completely on the left, up the wide crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Žížův masiv
From the base of the massif to the right of the route "Polykání andělíčků" up the crack… Rock Climbing
5
Děčínská věž
From the beginning of the crack, traverse left past the edge and up the S wall to the… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Děčínská věž
From the E wall diagonally left to K. Traverse left beyond the edge into the center of… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Děčínská věž
Up the V wall under the overhang to K. Right above the overhang and left through the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
9/9+
Děčínská věž
Through the crack in the south wall over 2 BH directly into the route "Kamufláž" and up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7+/8-
Děčínská věž
Up the left valley edge over 5 BH to the ring anchor, then directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8+/9-
Děčínská věž
Left of the route "Nirvana" over the overhang to BH, diagonally left (2nd BH) to 3rd BH.… Rock Climbing
6-
Děčínská věž
From the 1st K of the route "Kamufláž", up the wall directly over BH to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Děčínská věž
Up the right edge in the south wall directly over 2 BH to the ring and BH from the route … Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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