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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5+
Horní jeskynní věž
From the ring of the "South Route" directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Horní jeskynní věž
Up the chimney of the "Old Route" about halfway, left to the ring, up a delicate groove… Rock Climbing
8-/8
Horní jeskynní věž
In the north face, from the lower tier to the right of the chimney, difficultly up the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
9/9+
Horní jeskynní věž
In the plateau wall, directly over 2BHs to the ring of the "South Route" and directly to… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Horní jeskynní věž
Along the S edge (hour-glass) over 2K to the ring of the "South Route". As "Upper… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Horní jeskynní věž
From the base of the valley wall, up the corner and wall to the K. Along the cracks to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7+/8-
El paso
In the right part of the wall, directly over 3BHs to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing
7/7+
El paso
In the left part of the wall, over 2BHs to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing
7+/8-
El paso
In the right part of the massif, left to the 1st BH and directly over the 2nd BH to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
El paso
Through the wide crack to the right of the route "Fandím" to the summit. Rock Climbing
7/7+
El paso
Through the center of the wall, over 2BHs to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing
9/9+
El paso
From the start of the route "My Gusto" to the left (3BH) to the rappel point. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8-/8
El paso
To the right of "Me gusto", above the hole, directly into the notch and left over the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
El paso
Through the notch and the left edge of the SW wall, over 2 karabiners to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
El paso
To the right of the edge, from the right over the overhang into the edge and higher to… Rock Climbing
10-/10
El paso
In the right part of the massif, up the wall directly (BH) into the route "Lucie, the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
7/7+
El paso
In the left part of the wall, over two BHs to the rappel anchor. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
El paso
Overhanging wall over two BHs to the rappel point. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6+/7-
Múza
Approach like Museum, from the elephant ear directly up the wall (BH), then along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Dolní jeskynní věž
From the left to the right plateau edge and along it over 3BH to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Dolní jeskynní věž
To the left in the plateau wall, diagonally left up the crack to a ledge in the South… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8/8+
Dolní jeskynní věž
To the right of the "Old Route", diagonally right up the wall over 3BH into the hole of… Rock Climbing
8-/8
Dolní jeskynní věž
From the plateau route, from the circle, left up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Dolní jeskynní věž
Via the "Old Route" to the 1st ledge and the South edge via K to the summit. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Dolní jeskynní věž
Through the middle of the West face (K) to the balcony to the 3rd K of the "Mysterious… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Dolní jeskynní věž
From the middle of the plateau side, slightly diagonally right up the wall to K. By… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6+/7-
Dolní jeskynní věž
Along the West edge (2K) to the balcony to the 3rd K. Up the wall (4th K) via the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Dolní jeskynní věž
Via the "Old Route" to the second ledge, traverse right (K "South Edge") to the plateau… Rock Climbing
8/8+
Prales Boubín
Left along the wall, following the crack via (2BH) into the wide section and then to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Dolní jeskynní věž
On the north side below the overhang, diagonally right to the NW edge, right into the… Rock Climbing

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