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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

8/8+
Ztracený kamarád
From the rock to the left of the Nevyměknem route, over the overhang (bolt). Directly… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4-
Vlkouší stěna
To the right in the NW corner, via the chimney and crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Textile belay +1
6
Žehlička
Up the middle of the SE pillar over K to the ledge. Traverse right behind the edge and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
6
Vlkouší stěna
Up the middle of the right East pillar to K, via the crack over the overhang and left to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7-/7
Žehlička
To the right of the Valley Crack, up the wall over 2 K to the saddle. Traverse left into… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
5
Žehlička
Up the plateau wall along the crack diagonally left to the ledge in the NW wall and along… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
6-
Žehlička
From the balcony of the "Old Path" via the East edge over the overhang to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
6-
Žehlička
Up the middle of the plateau wall via K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
5
Žehlička
Via the wall and crack in the valley wall to the balcony and via the Old Path to the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
5+
Žehlička
Via the right valley edge over K to the balcony and via the Old Path to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
4+
Žehlička
Via the Old Path to the ledge and up the South edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
6+/7-
Žehlička
To the left in the valley wall, up the wall to K and along the edge to the ledge. Right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
5+
Prérie
Via the crack into a horizontal break, traverse left into another widening crack and up… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Žehlička
In the plateau wall via a crack to a large ledge and traverse left or right into the NW… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
5+
Prérie
In the left part of the massif via the wall (K), over the overhang to 2nd K. From there… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Prérie
Via the wall in the middle of the massif over 3 K to the abseil point. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Prérie
Via the Hatátitlá route's crack to the end and up the wall to K. Along the right edge to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Žehlička
As per the "Old Path" route, all the way to the valley side, then diagonally left up the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
4+
Slídil
Up the plateau wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
7-/7
Prérie
From the fore-rock up the middle of the East wall (2 BH), later along the left edge (3rd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
5+
Slídil
Via the right part of the valley wall to K, along the crack to the balcony and via the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
6+/7-
Slídil
Up the middle of the valley wall via K to 2nd K. To the left via a small pinnacle onto… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
5
Slídil
To the left of the "Old Path" to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
6+/7-
Slídil
Via the Beer Route over K to 2nd K. Straight up the pillar over K further to the 3rd K of… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7-/7
Zálesák
From the lowest point to the right in the valley wall, along the N edge over 3 BH to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
4-
Slídil
From the block, along the plateau edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
4+
Slídil
To the left of the "Solo Walk" to the edge and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
6
Zálesák
About 4 m left of the Whitsun Crack start, through the inner chimney to the mezzanine. Up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
6-
Zálesák
About 4 m left of the Coatimundi route start, along the crack and through the chimney to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
4+
Chiricahuas
From the S saddle, left of the View Area start, through the crack to the balcony, left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1

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