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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5
Turek
To the left in the NE face, via the face over an overhang and a corner to the terrace.… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
4+
Turek
Completely to the right on the valley side, via a prominent corner and crack to the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
3
Turek
Completely to the right on the S side, via the face to the forepeak. Then via the Old… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
2+
Turek
From the windward (W) side in the chimney left to the saddle. From the left, V edge to… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
4-
Holoubě
Left valley edge below the overhang (hourglass), along the right edge over the overhang… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
4-
Turek
To the left of the "Old Path" start, via a corner to the forepeak and right to the saddle… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
2+
Turek
To the right of the "Old Path" via an overhanging rib to the saddle. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
5+
Holoubě
Left valley edge over the overhang and further as the 'Valley Route' to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
3
Holoubě
From the ledge on the S side through the middle of the wall into a hole, then along the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
2+
Turek
Follow the Old Path to the saddle and a short S face directly north-east. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
4-
Turek
To the left of the "Full Moon" route, via a small pillar to the ledge and right to the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
3
Holoubě
Via the plateau wall. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
6+/7-
Assiniboin
From the right onto the balcony of the S pillar. Wall and left edge over K to the fore… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
4+
Assiniboin
From the right onto the balcony on the S pillar. Right edge of the pillar and crack to… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
4-
Assiniboin
About 4 m right of the balcony in the corner of the North Ascent, chimney to the fore… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
2
Assiniboin
In the middle on the S side in a corner over steps to the fore-rock. As a Transitional… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
6+/7-
Assiniboin
Right valley (NE) edge and left of the edge a slabby wall to an overhang (BH). Over the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Assiniboin
In the large NE corner about 2 m left of the start of the Powderface route, chimney to a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
6-
Assiniboin
In the large NE corner via a prominent corner crack, chimney and crack over an overhang… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
6-
Assiniboin
To the right of the right valley (NE) edge via a crack over an overhang, left to the edge… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6
Assiniboin
To the right on the valley side in a large corner, left of the Powderface route, via a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
6+/7-
Assiniboin
To the right on the valley side in a large corner, right of the Powderface route, wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
6
Assiniboin
Ascending notch of the New Valley Route to the pillar and left wall over 3 BH to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
5+
Assiniboin
From the gorge between Holubník and Assiniboin, the notch under the overhang. Left above… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6-
Assiniboin
Short climb up the New Valley Route's starting notch and left along the wall and blunt… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
4-
Assiniboin
Right in the gully between Holubník and Assiniboin through the corner over blocks to the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
6+/7-
Assiniboin
From the start of the Southeast Route, left along the wall to K and further slightly left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
5+
Assiniboin
To the right on the S side of the W balcony, up the wall to the right beyond the edge to… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
6-
Assiniboin
From the start of the Southeast Route, directly up the wall to K at the edge and along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
?
Assiniboin
On the plateau side from the West over blocks to the long forepeak and along it to the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay

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