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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5
Chiricahuas
Right on the N side through the chimney to the saddle. Along the NE edge over the BH to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
6+/7-
Chiricahuas
Up the middle of the E wall over two bolts directly to the abseil bolt hanger. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
6-
Chiricahuas
Along the SE edge to the K and up the wall from the left to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
2+
Tomahowks
From the N side, from the ledge on Chiricahuas, traverse/jump to the summit of the tower. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Chiricahuas
Left of the start of the Jeskynní komín (Cave Chimney) route, through the chimney to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
4+
Tomahowks
From S above the cave entrance to the balcony in the gully on the W side. Right of the NW… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
4+
Chiricahuas
From S into the cave and right onto the block. Through the chimney past the wedged stone… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
4+
Tomahowks
From the cave near Chiricahuas, left through the chimney to the saddle between the rocks.… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
2
Tomahowks
From the massif on the W side, traverse/jump to the summit of the tower. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Tomahowks
From S above the cave entrance to the balconies in the gully. Along the sharp upper (NW)… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Tomahowks
From S above the cave entrance into the gully between Tomahowsk and Chiricahuas. Up the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
5+
Tomahowks
To the left on the E side, via a crack to the bolt (BH). Via the 'sokolík' crack to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
6
Tomahowks
Along the wall on a slanting ledge to the right to the crack and then to the end (ring on… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
3
Mescalero
Via the windward edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
2+
Mescalero
From the windward side, traverse left and via the valley edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
4+
Turek
Via the SW edge to the ledge and right along the edge via the face in the S face to the… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
2+
Tomahowks
From the valley side, briefly via a chimney between the tower and the massif to a small… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
5
Turek
To the right of the start of the Old Path, via a pillar to the S ledge and then via the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
5+
Turek
To the left of the "Duo" route, via a pillar over an overhang (K) to the terrace and then… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
3
Turek
To the right in the S face, via a ramp to the right to the SE edge and along it to the… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
4+
Turek
To the right of the "South Crack" route, via a crack and the face to the ledge and… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
5
Turek
To the right of the "South Route" via the face to the ledge and directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
3
Turek
To the right of the "Valley Crack" via a chimney to the terrace and then via the Old Path… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
4-
Turek
In the notch on the valley side, via the left crack and a corner to the terrace. Then via… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
4+
Turek
To the left on the south side, via a crack into a hole and diagonally right to the ledge.… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
2+
Turek
From the start of the "Turkish Ramp", via a narrow chimney to the terrace and then via… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
3
Turek
In the right part of the S face, an indistinct ramp upwards to the saddle. Then via the … Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
4-
Turek
To the left in the S face, via a small pillar (sokolík) and the face to the terrace. Then… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
3
Turek
To the left of "Eunuch's Trail" via a prominent ramp to the saddle. Then via the "Old… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
4-
Turek
In the left part of the S face, via the face to the terrace and then via the Old Path to… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay

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