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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6
Sarajevská stěna
To the left of the "Laibach" route, up the wall via a BH to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Sarajevská stěna
To the left of the "Archduke" route, via a crack (K) and an edge into the "Archduke"… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Sarajevská stěna
In the North wall from the upper balcony, traverse right along the ledge and through a… Rock Climbing
4-
Sarajevská stěna
In the North wall from the upper balcony, via a corner and crack to the top. Rock Climbing
8-/8
Skalní fanoušek
Up the overhanging wall to the right of Ztohoven to a BH, slightly from the left over the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Skalní fanoušek
Up the wall and an interrupted crack directly via a BH to the ledge and further up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Sarajevská stěna
In the North wall from the upper balcony, via an edge and wall directly over 3 BHs to the… Rock Climbing
9+
Skalní fanoušek
In the right part of the wall, to the left of the corner, up the wall and slab directly… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8/8+
Skalní fanoušek
Briefly via the Ztohoven route and diagonally left up the wall via a BH higher up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Umbamba
In the right part of the wall into the crack and up the wall to the BH. Above it,… Rock Climbing Textile belay
9/9+
Umbamba
In the left part of the overhanging wall directly over the spike to 3 BH of the Gipsy cz… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
7+/8-
Skalní fanoušek
Massif to the left of the west face of the Sarajevo wall. Up the wall to the ledge and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Umbamba
Up the middle of the pillar directly to the third BH of the Gipsy cz route and along it… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8-/8
Umbamba
To the right of the "Přízemní komplikace" route, up the wall over 6 BH to the rappel… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8+/9-
Umbamba
Up the wall directly to the 2nd BH from the left, the 3rd BH directly to the 4th BH and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Umbamba
To the left from the terrace (to the right of the Pod lampou route) via a distinct wide… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Umbamba
To the left along the edge from the "Direct Soft Movers" route over BH to the 2nd BH,… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
8-/8
Umbamba
In the middle of the valley wall directly through a crack over 2 BH and further over the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
7+/8-
Umbamba
Along the left edge and further directly up the wall over 4 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Umbamba
Along the edge and through the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Umbamba
Completely to the left from the terrace (to the left of the Pod lampou route) via cracks … Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Vědma
From the valley up the wall, a crack (slings) and a wall (BH) and up to the rappel. Rock Climbing Textile belay
9/9+
Stěna bratří Weingartlů
To the right of the Jing jang route, via a corner to the balcony and along the right edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Stěna bratří Weingartlů
Up the lower wall directly over four BH and from the right to the summit. (rappel point) Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6+/7-
Stěna bratří Weingartlů
To the left of the Jin a jang route, via a crack, a corner over the overhang (2 BH) to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Stěna bratří Weingartlů
On the upper left massive wall, to the right from the shelf, via a distinct corner crack… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Stěna bratří Weingartlů
On the upper left massif (on the slope) to the right of the Lago di Macho route directly… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+/8-
Stěna bratří Weingartlů
On the upper left massif (on the slope), in the left part directly up the face over 2… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Masív 660
Difficult over the overhang via a short crack and the face into an overhanging chimney… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8+/9-
Stěna bratří Weingartlů
Up the face (bh) directly to the rappel point of the Lago di Macho route. Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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