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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

9+
Saský skanzen
From the rock in the right part of the scree, up the wall slightly from the left around… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Střípek
About 3m to the left of the edge directly to the ring. Rock Climbing
4+
Střípek
From the block below the S face, left to the edge and up the wall directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Střípek
To the left in the North face, up the chimney to the fore-summit and via the "Old Route"… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Střípek
Briefly up the small chimney in the ledge to the right to the NE ridge over a bolt to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Střípek
Near the NE ridge (standing) below the roof-like overhang, right up the wall and over two… Rock Climbing
6-
Střípek
Along the left valley NW edge to the K, from the left up the wall to an inclined… Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Střípek
Through the middle of the valley wall over 2 rings into a wide crack and through it to… Rock Climbing
3
Střípek
Via the "Old Route" to the fore-summit, step right into the East face and along it to the… Rock Climbing
8+/9-
Střípek
Like the route from "Overhang to overhang" to the 1st ring and from there to the right to… Rock Climbing
8+/9-
Střípek
In the right part of the valley wall over 2 bolts directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Iron
Along the valley edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
8+/9-
Pod střípkem
Up the wall into a crack and through it to a ledge. To the right to a bolt and up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Střípek
Through the corner from the South or descend from the massif into the gorge and up the… Rock Climbing
5+
Iron
Along the right valley edge and left to the rappelling point of the "Maková panenka"… Rock Climbing Textile belay
9/9+
Pod střípkem
In the left part of the north face, directly over two bolts, higher up from the left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Pod střípkem
To the right of the start of the 'Glass Fiber' route, through a short crack (hourglasses)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8+/9-
Pod střípkem
To the right of the 'Glass Eye' route, up a small wall to a bolt, and from there directly… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Crystal
Through the chimney and wall (K) directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
8-/8
Iron
Up the NW wall directly over two BH to the rappelling point. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Iron
In the left wall of the corner, through the middle of the small pillar via 2 BH to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Crystal
Along the valley edge directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Iron
To the left of the 'Iron Lady', up the wall and through small ledges to the rappelling… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Valdštejnská stěna
In the right part of the S wall over 3K to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Valdštejnská stěna
To the left of 'Sešel z cesty' (Went off the path), via a gentle arête under the overhang… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Valdštejnská stěna
Up the center of the narrow South wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
9/9+
Valdštejnská stěna
To the left of 'Mladá garda' (Young Guard), directly up the wall over BH to the 2nd BH.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Valdštejnská stěna
Left in the valley wall (4K) to the rappel. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Valdštejnská stěna
To the right in the valley wall via an arête into a horizontal notch and through a… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
6
Valdštejnská stěna
In the right part of the S wall, to the right of the 'Samorobo' route, directly up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1

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