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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5
De Bill
Between two pillars, through the corner under the overhang via a crack in the left part… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7-/7
Hrbolatá stěna
On the NW side from the balcony, the right part of the overhanging wall via 3 BH to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7-/7
Pozdní hlava
To the right of the Fajn route, in the middle of the NW face, via 2 K to the rappel and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8+/9-
Argo
Up the valley wall of the left pillar via BH, slightly from the right (without using the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
7+/8-
Veselá stěna
About 7 m to the right of the chimney between Pozdní hlava and Veselá stěna from a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8/8+
Argo
Left on the left pillar directly over the overhang around the 1st BH to the 2nd BH. Above… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Pozdní hlava
Start from the valley in the left part of the wall via a crack in the corner over an… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6
Pozdní hlava
From the balcony on the NW side, turn left and up the edge to the 1st BH. Left into the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8+/9-
Pozdní hlava
Along the left valley edge and straight up the wall to the 1st BH, directly over the 2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
8/8+
Pozdní hlava
Overhanging west face via BH directly to the rappel. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
4+
Hranol
Through the center of the plateau (SW) face. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +2
6+/7-
Hranol
Start with the crack of the "Harmony of Opposites" route to the ledge, then traverse… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5
Hranol
In the plateau face, right to the S edge and up that to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +2
5
Hranol
Directly up the SE edge to the ledge of the "Red Route". Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +2
7-/7
Hranol
In the left part of the valley face over the overhang, then through a notch and up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Hranol
Through the center of the E face via 2 BH to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7-/7
Hranol
Start in the right part of the valley face. Diagonally left over the overhang to the 1st… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5
Hranol
(By building up) in the W face to a ledge, then up the crack and face to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6+/7-
Hranol
Start in the right part of the west face. Up the face first diagonally left, then… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Čip
To the left of the Opencard route, up the face along the edge via K to a large balcony… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Čip
On the left valley side, to the right of the chimney, up the face via 2 BH to a ledge.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
3
Hranol
Along the left plateau edge. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
7-/7
Čip
On the right valley side, up the face via 3 BH directly to the rappelling point. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6+/7-
Čip
To the right of the Opencard route, up the face via 2 K to a ledge, then up the corner… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
4+
Čip
In the lower part of the gully between Čip and Čípek, up the crack to a balcony on the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
3
Lukostřelec
From the plateau side, left behind the SE edge and up the small face to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Lukostřelec
Up the overhanging face along the left valley edge via K to the summit. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Čip
In the left side face (from Čípek) to the left of Dejlova crack along a small corner and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
4+
Lukostřelec
Through the center of the S face via K to the summit. Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Lukostřelec
Directly through the center of the S face via BH to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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