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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6-
Zrcadlo
From the S, through the middle of the pillar in the left part of the wall via BH and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
7+/8-
Zrcadlo
Along with the “Looks are Deceiving” route via the corner (or initially left along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Zrcadlo
In the left part of the wall, up the steps under a smooth corner, then to the end and… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Letní rezidence
To the left of the route "Against the Current" over a bolt onto the fore-rock to 1 piton… Rock Climbing
8-/8
Letní rezidence
High in the corner of the north face over two bh directly to the summit to the abseil… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Letní rezidence
In the large corner to the right of the Seance route through the wall over 3 bh to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Letní rezidence
Slabby wall over 5K to the summit. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Letní rezidence
From the 4th ring of the Zámecká zahrada (Castle Garden) route traverse right into the… Rock Climbing
5
Letní rezidence
Left of Seance along the edge over 4 bh to the abseil bh. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Letní rezidence
Start completely left in the large corner. Left through the wall over 2 K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Letní rezidence
Left in the right part of the massif from the block through the wall over 3 bh to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Letní rezidence
Left in the wall in the middle of the pillar (BH) left and over 4BH to the BH of the… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Sluneční zahrada
Through the corner in the middle of the wall to the 1st bolt. Left onto the edge and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
7+/8-
Sluneční zahrada
By opposition to the small balcony and right up the wall, later along the blunt edge (3… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
8-/8
Sluneční zahrada
Right wall (2 bolts), slightly from the right into the slab and through it (3rd bolt,… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
6
Sluneční zahrada
Via the Café Espresso route to the 1st bolt. Further through the corner notch to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
7+/8-
Čirtská jehla
From K of the "Mávátko" route directly up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
3
Čirtská jehla
From the saddle to the right to a balcony in the W wall and by a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Nešvar
To the left above the lower pillar of Nešvaru from the ledge by the birch tree directly… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Čirtská jehla
From the saddle by a wall and a crack to a ledge and along the left edge over a ring to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Nešvar
From the valley's lower rock formation approximately through the middle of the wall over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Nešvar
To the left of the valley's lower rock formation from the lowest point by the wall,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Nešvar
To the left above the lower pillar of Nešvaru from the small balcony, where the Švar… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Čirtská jehla
To the left of the "East Crack" route by a crack and to the left along the edge to a… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
8-/8
Čirtská jehla
To the right in the W wall directly over 2 BH to the balcony. First along the edge, then… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Čirtská jehla
To the left of the "Valley Route" by a crack and a wall into a double crack (BH). Along… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
4-
Čirtská jehla
To the left of the "Children's Farts" route by a crack to a large platform and by the … Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Textile belay
4-
Čirtská jehla
By a chimney in the middle of the valley wall to an overgrown balcony. Along the rib to… Rock Climbing
6-
Čirtská jehla
In the W wall by a corner and up steps to the balcony. By a crack to the balcony of the … Rock Climbing
4-
Čirtská jehla
In the right part of the valley wall by a crack to a large platform and by the "Old Route… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing

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