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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

8/8+
Kormidelník
Along the right S edge over 3K into the corner of the "Man Overboard" route and right to… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Kormidelník
Through a prominent corner in the S wall via K to the 3rd K of the "Iron Curtain" route… Rock Climbing
9+
Kormidelník
Via the "Lower Variant of the Iron Curtain" over K, through the left crack to BH and up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Kormidelník
Up the S wall to the 1st K. Through the crack and up the wall over the 2nd K to a ledge… Rock Climbing
6
Kormidelník
Through the crack in the center of the wall over the ring to the 1st K of the "Iron… Rock Climbing
8/8+
Kormidelník
From the 2nd ring of "Honzík's Route" to the edge and over it via 6BH to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Kormidelník
In the left part of the S wall, follow the crack to the end (reception) and then left… Rock Climbing
8-/8
Kormidelník
From 5BH directly to 6th BH and from the abseil BH further up the wall to the 2nd abseil… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Kormidelník
Left on the S wall over 5BH and right into the crack of the "Genesis" route. Briefly up… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Kormidelník
To the left of the "Pensioner in the Garden" route, up a indistinct edge (K), higher up… Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Kormidelník
From the 5th BH of the Popeye route, right to the 2nd K of the Genesis route and further… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Kormidelník
To the left of the "North Crack" via an overgrown corner to the block. Diagonally left, a… Rock Climbing
6-
Kormidelník
Up the crack to the small balcony to a large block (belay station). Up the corner under… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Kormidelník
To the left of the "Crimson Sails" route, up the corner to the 5th bolt of the "Crimson… Rock Climbing
8-/8
Kormidelník
Start to the right of the "Small Fish" route along the blunt edge over 2 BH into the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Kormidelník
Immediately to the right of the gully between the Helmsman and the Cathedral, up the wall… Rock Climbing
4+
Kormidelník
Up the crack to the left of the "Small Fish" route to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Kazatel
Start on the right edge. Diagonally left up the wall into a corner, through which to the… Rock Climbing
8/8+
Kazatel
From the 7th K of the Dachau Blues route (in the ledge above the blunt edge) left under… Rock Climbing
5
Kazatel
To the left of the "Wau wau" route up the corner, through the crack over 2 BH and further… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Echo
Up the East face directly over two BH into the crack and then to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Mauricius
From the S, a small chimney groove and directly up the small wall between two chimneys to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Mauricius
On the right in the downhill S wall, a broken chimney-crack to the cave and then up the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8-/8
Metalistická stěna
From the 1st ring of the route "Suicidal Tendencies", diagonally left (bolt) and over the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Mauricius
To the right of the S edge, up a short chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+/8-
Metalistická stěna
Along the NW edge, to the left of the route Anthrax, over 3 bolts to the rappel point. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2+
Mauricius
At the E edge, up the chimney between the tower and the small tower (Tanečník - Dancer),… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Mauricius
From the NE, up the middle of the overhanging small wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
8-/8
Metalistická stěna
In the north wall, over 4 rings to the ledge, and then up the slab over 2 rings to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Mauricius
Up a short wall under the rappel point to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay

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