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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5
Labský pilíř
From the gorge between Skaut and Labsky Pillar, up the overhanging wall and crack under… Rock Climbing
5+
Nebelvír
Via the chimney to the fore-rock and left up the wall over the overhang to the bolt. Up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6+/7-
Nebelvír
Up the wall to the left of the chimney of the Zlatěnka route, difficult to the ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Nebelvír
In the middle of the W wall, up the crack to its end. Up the wall over the overhang (ring… Rock Climbing
4+
Myš
Through the center of the valley wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Myš
Left valley edge. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Myš
Left of the Old Route via a step-across into the wall and along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Myš
Via the wall along the plateau edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Srazová věž
From the massif, descend to the plateau, traverse/overhang, and along the E edge to the… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Srazová věž
To the right of the SW pillar wall along the crack, up the wall past 2 rings, and along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Srazová věž
Via the chimney from the S to the saddle and through the center of the upper wall to the… Rock Climbing
2+
Srazová věž
From the S via the chimney between the plateau and the massif to the E edge. Rock Climbing
4+
Srazová věž
To the right in the S wall via a crack into a recess and through it to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Srazová věž
Along the S edge over a ring directly to the ring of the “Southern Route” and by that to… Rock Climbing
6
Srazová věž
Through the center of the S wall (hourglass) over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Srazová věž
On the S side via the chimney to the adjacent pillar, (by standing) on the edge and to… Rock Climbing
5+
Srazová věž
In the S wall, traverse along a ledge (hourglass) to the ring. Over the overhang into a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9/9+
Srazová věž
In the valley wall to the left of the chimney, through corners and a overhanging edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8/8+
Komoda
To the right in the SW wall from the balcony along the wall, further right along the edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Srazová věž
In the valley wall through a crack, higher along the wall to the summit of the pillar … Rock Climbing
9+
Srazová věž
To the left in the valley wall from the notch directly along the wall to the 1st BH,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Srazová věž
To the left of "Valley Crack" along the wall over 2K to the summit of the pillar. Like … Rock Climbing
6-
Srazová věž
To the left of "Third Pole" along the wall over 3K to the edge and along it to the summit… Rock Climbing
6
Srazová věž
Along the NW wall over 3K to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Srazová věž
From the N side via a chimney to the adjacent pillar. Rock Climbing
8-/8
Komoda
Together with Hendrik's route along the gully and small rib to 2 BH. Further along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8/8+
Komoda
Along the gully and small rib (2 BH) to the right into the hole. Along the wall (3 and 4… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Skříň
From the saddle between Skříň and Špičák along the NE edge to the pulpit. (Via aid) to K… Rock Climbing
5+
Komoda
From the ledge in the right part of the wall over the overhang (1st K) and higher along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
9/9+
Komoda
In the corner between Komoda and Skříň (beware, dangerous block at the start!) to 1BH and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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