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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5
Kamarádská věž
Through the middle of the valley wall via a crack directly into the old route. Rock Climbing
4+
Kamarádská věž
Around the V-edge to the right onto the pulpit and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Kamarádská věž
From the saddle (from the start of the Old Route) directly up a short edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Kamarádská věž
From the saddle, traverse left to the middle of the valley wall and up the wall to the… Rock Climbing
4+
Kamarádská věž
From the saddle to the left and via the West edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Bob a bobek
Via the chimney from the north to Boba and via the 'Old Route' to the summit. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Bob a bobek
To the right of the 'Thief of Time' route, through the middle of the wall directly over… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
3
Bob a bobek
Via the chimney from the uphill side to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Bob a bobek
Via the chimney in the NE wall to Boba's summit and via the 'Old Route' to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Bob a bobek
Via the chimney from the valley to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Bob a bobek
Via the chimney to the right of the 'Náhorní komín' (Uphill Chimney) route to Boba's… Rock Climbing
5+
Bob a bobek
To the left in the West wall via a wide crack to the end, then right via a narrow chimney… Rock Climbing
4-
Bob a bobek
In the middle of the valley (North) wall to a ledge, then left via a wall into an… Rock Climbing
5
Bob a bobek
Via the left uphill edge (K) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Zaječí pelech
In the middle of the massif via a wall (BH) under the overhang. Over it (2nd BH) directly… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Zaječí pelech
Via a shoulder crack, higher up a chimney to the summit. (unprotected) Rock Climbing
5
Bob a bobek
Via a diagonal crack from the north to the summit. (unprotected) Rock Climbing
2+
Bob a bobek
Via the SW chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Bob a bobek
Along the right uphill edge via a ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Bob a bobek
To the left in the North wall along ledges, higher up via a gully to Boba. Via the old… Rock Climbing
5
Zaječí pelech
In the left part of the wall along the rib and a wall (large hourglass/thread), higher up… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Pokustón
Via a crack in the corner, a chimney and higher up a wall to the right along the edge (SU… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Pokustón
In the left part of the valley wall, via a crack and a wall along the edge (2K) under the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Pokustón
Through the middle of the valley wall (2K) under the overhang (SU), directly over it to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2+
Pokustón
From the ledge in the left part of the massif, traverse to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Tramp
From the plateau, up the small wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Pokustón
From the projection in the right part of the massif, traverse 2 to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Pokustón
From the massif on the uphill side, an overhang and a small wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Tramp
Up the middle of the West face over the bellies to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Tramp
Up the middle of the NE face to the summit. (unsecured). (Abseiling). Rock Climbing

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