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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

7-/7
Leporelo
Along the right valley (E) edge over 3 BH, by crack left at the edge above the 4th BH and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Piskořův (Houserův) pilíř
Left part of the right pillar up the wall over 3K to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Piskořův (Houserův) pilíř
At the right valley edge of the right pillar, several meters up and traverse left to K.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Piskořův (Houserův) pilíř
To the right of the start of the South route, over two rings, then through a crack in the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Piskořův (Houserův) pilíř
From the boulder in the East wall, traverse the overhang left to the ledge (hours) and up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9/9+
Piskořův (Houserův) pilíř
To the left of "Šavlový tanec" (Saber Dance) along the edge over the 1st BH and left to… Rock Climbing
8-/8
Piskořův (Houserův) pilíř
From the start of "Něžné klání" (Gentle Contest) via the bolt from the right to the 1st… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Piskořův (Houserův) pilíř
To the right of "Kamaradská cesta" (Friends' Route) via the overhang and wall over 3K,… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+/8-
Piskořův (Houserův) pilíř
Like "Valley corner" about 10m to the ledge. Straight up the side wall (2 bolts) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Piskořův (Houserův) pilíř
Briefly up the "Valley corner". Traverse left into the center of the W wall and up it… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Piskořův (Houserův) pilíř
Briefly up the "Valley corner" and left onto the SW edge. Up it over 3K to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Piskořův (Houserův) pilíř
Left corner to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Piskořův (Houserův) pilíř
Briefly via the right corner and right along the wall to the 1st K. Into the corner, up… Rock Climbing
6-
Piskořův (Houserův) pilíř
Along the route "Modrý z nebe" (Blue from the Sky) about halfway through the traverse and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Piskořův (Houserův) pilíř
Left in the valley wall via a blunt edge over 2K to the 2nd K of the route "Pokrok" … Rock Climbing
7-/7
Piskořův (Houserův) pilíř
In the right part of the N wall to the crack and up it to the end at the 1st K. Directly… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Piskořův (Houserův) pilíř
In the right part of the left wall, to the left of the route "Dusné odpoledne" (Sultry… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Piskořův (Houserův) pilíř
Completely left in the N wall, straight up the corner, higher up right along the rib to… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Piskořův (Houserův) pilíř
In the left part of the left wall between the routes "Souhra stínů" (Harmony of Shadows)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Piskořův (Houserův) pilíř
In the left part of the wall over 2K to the summit. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Piskořův (Houserův) pilíř
N wall over 3K to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Piskořův (Houserův) pilíř
In the left part of the valley wall via a distinct corner to its end (K). Traverse left… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Piskořův (Houserův) pilíř
To the left of "Ischias" (Sciatica) via a blunt edge over 3K to the summit. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Růžová palice
Up the valley wall over 4K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Růžová palice
From the East edge right into the valley wall, there obliquely right via the crack to the… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Koberec
To the left of the 'Broken Crack', up the wall over 2K to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Koberec
To the left of the 'Ordinary Route' along the edge over 2K to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Růžová palice
Through the middle of the upper wall into a hole, over the overhang into the crack and… Rock Climbing
6-
Růžová palice
To the right in the upper wall into a hole, traverse right into the overhanging crack and… Rock Climbing
4+
Koberec
Through the crack in the right part of the wall to the balcony. To the right through the… Rock Climbing

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