Ostroh Gilotiny is, with almost 250 routes on 22 rocks, the largest sector of the left bank of the Elbe Valley. The biggest include Sicilská stěna, Indiánka, Gilotina, Pivní kámen, Smolař, Monolit and Otec. There are traditional and sport sandstone routes with rings and textile protection, often in the shade; grades from 2 to 10+/11-.
Part of 7. Elbe Valley – left bank, 10. Ostroh Gilotiny has 247 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2 to 10+/11-. Explore its 22 crags and sectors below.
Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Textile belay, Sport Climbing.
Rules
First ascents only after prior approval of the rock manager, e-mail: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz. The valid conditions for approving first ascents are here.
- Top-rope only where it will not damage the rock or fixed gear (own quickdraw as anchor, no rope friction on the rock).
- First ascents only with the area administrator's approval (left bank: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz).
- Unapproved fixed equipment is banned.
The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.
- Chalk is banned.
- No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
- Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
- Do not alter the rock surface.
- Abseil from the summit rings.
Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.
Sicilská stěna Indiánka Gilotina Pivní kámen Smolař Monolit Otec Sierra madre Indián Pivní tácek Blueberry hill Totem Mariáš Tee pee Postýlka Filuta Gargamel Klikař Shrek Íšek Panenka Qac
7-/7
Ferum
From the balcony, through the center of the E face over 3 BH to K, then up the wall over… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8+/9-
Prcasova zkratka
From the 4th K of the route "Backlash" directly up the smooth wall to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8-/8
Zpětný ráz
Right of the route "That was a stroke of luck", via the wall over 4 BH to the 5th BH.… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6
To byla klika
Left of Otec in the corner several meters up and traverse right to the edge. Along it… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
4+
Neopakovatelný zážitek
In the corner via a double crack to the 5th BH of the route "Temporary Amnesia". Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7+/8-
Chvilková amnézie
Left of the corner along the rounded edge over 5 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6-
Cesta pana nadlesního
Via the right crack and wall (BH) to the summit to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6+/7-
Levoboček
From the 1st BH of the route "Friday the Thirteenth", right via the wall over 3 BH to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6-
Skákal pes
Start left of "Mr. Forester's Route" via a broken corner and crack over an overhang, then… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7-/7
Jižní zkratka
Between "Mr. Forester's Route" and "Temporary Amnesia", diagonally left up the wall over… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7/7+
Pátek třináctýho
In the South face, via the left edge over 2 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6-
Po práci legraci
Completely on the left in the South face, briefly via the chimney, higher up the wall… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6-
Všemohoucí Klikava
Via the center of the wall over 3 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5
Pokakaný štěstíčko
Completely on the right of the massif, via the wall and edge, over 2 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6
Z prdele klika
In the right part of the wall, via a crack and a small wall, over 2 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
5
Kličky-cvičky
Via the left edge over 2 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5
Zikyho sen
Through the crack in the right part of the E wall over the overhang to its end and a step… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
5+
Pohádka Pro Áju
Along the edge in the middle of the wall to the ledge, then the wall over 2 BH and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
5+
Kliky-háky
Via the left part of the wall over 3 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5+
Vřesoviště
About 3 m to the right of the edge, climb the wall over 5 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5
Mechoviště
Via the SE edge over 4 BH to the balcony to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5+
Sladce spi
Through the chimney between Panenka and Postýlka briefly upwards and then via the blunt… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6
Ukolébavka
To the right of the route "Vřesoviště" (Heatherland) from the terrace along the prominent… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
4-
Východní stěna
On the E wall into the notch and via that to the balcony. Climb the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
2+
Stará cesta
From the gorge to the right and up the W wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
4+
Kuzmín
To the left of the route "Sweetly Sleep" via the chimney and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
4+
Blop
At the eastern valley edge, up the gully to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
3
Kouzelný lektvar
At the South edge, up the small wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
4+
Krason
Through the center of the SW face to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1