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Climbing at 10. Ostroh Gilotiny

247 routes
22 areas
2–10+/11- grades

Ostroh Gilotiny is, with almost 250 routes on 22 rocks, the largest sector of the left bank of the Elbe Valley. The biggest include Sicilská stěna, Indiánka, Gilotina, Pivní kámen, Smolař, Monolit and Otec. There are traditional and sport sandstone routes with rings and textile protection, often in the shade; grades from 2 to 10+/11-.

Part of 7. Elbe Valley – left bank, 10. Ostroh Gilotiny has 247 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2 to 10+/11-. Explore its 22 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Textile belay, Sport Climbing.

Rules

First ascents only after prior approval of the rock manager, e-mail: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz. The valid conditions for approving first ascents are here.
  • Top-rope only where it will not damage the rock or fixed gear (own quickdraw as anchor, no rope friction on the rock).
  • First ascents only with the area administrator's approval (left bank: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz).
  • Unapproved fixed equipment is banned.

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Parking

50.84315, 14.21647

Google Waze
Sicilská stěna 25 routes Indiánka 22 routes Gilotina 21 routes Pivní kámen 18 routes Smolař 18 routes Monolit 17 routes Otec 17 routes Sierra madre 14 routes Indián 11 routes Pivní tácek 11 routes Blueberry hill 10 routes Totem 10 routes Mariáš 8 routes Tee pee 8 routes Postýlka 7 routes Filuta 6 routes Gargamel 6 routes Klikař 5 routes Shrek 4 routes Íšek 4 routes Panenka 3 routes Qac 2 routes
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4-
Shrek
Through the left part of the overhanging NW face from the plateau, up the wall and… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
4-
Indián
To the left of the base of the tower through the corner and corner cracks between the… Rock Climbing
6-
Indián
Right in the plateau wall, hand-traversing right to the edge. Along it over the overhang… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
4-
Indián
Center of the plateau wall. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
3
Indián
Left in the plateau wall onto a ledge, traverse left around the edge and up the wall to… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
2
Otec
Descent from the massif and at the level of the tower's summit, traverse in the West face… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
4-
Otec
From the massif above the tower, descend via a gully and crack to the ledge at the level… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1

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