Ostroh Gilotiny is, with almost 250 routes on 22 rocks, the largest sector of the left bank of the Elbe Valley. The biggest include Sicilská stěna, Indiánka, Gilotina, Pivní kámen, Smolař, Monolit and Otec. There are traditional and sport sandstone routes with rings and textile protection, often in the shade; grades from 2 to 10+/11-.
Part of 7. Elbe Valley – left bank, 10. Ostroh Gilotiny has 247 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2 to 10+/11-. Explore its 22 crags and sectors below.
Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Textile belay, Sport Climbing.
Rules
First ascents only after prior approval of the rock manager, e-mail: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz. The valid conditions for approving first ascents are here.
- Top-rope only where it will not damage the rock or fixed gear (own quickdraw as anchor, no rope friction on the rock).
- First ascents only with the area administrator's approval (left bank: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz).
- Unapproved fixed equipment is banned.
The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.
- Chalk is banned.
- No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
- Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
- Do not alter the rock surface.
- Abseil from the summit rings.
Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.
Sicilská stěna Indiánka Gilotina Pivní kámen Smolař Monolit Otec Sierra madre Indián Pivní tácek Blueberry hill Totem Mariáš Tee pee Postýlka Filuta Gargamel Klikař Shrek Íšek Panenka Qac
8+/9-
Guma guar
Via the route "Zahnutý stereo" (Bent Stereo) to the 1st K and from the left over 4 K to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9/9+
Ročník 1957
From the 4th K of the route "Zahnuté stereo" (Bent Stereo) directly up the wall to the K… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
10-/10
Šílený tanec
From K of "Psí život" (Dog's Life) diagonally left up the overhanging wall over 4 BH to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8/8+
Ugrofin
From the 1st K of the route "Žaludeční likér" (Stomach Liqueur) left up the wall along… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8/8+
Psí život
Access from the balcony left of the left valley edge. Up the overhanging wall and a small… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7+/8-
Žaludeční likér
Along the left valley edge (1st K) to the overhang. To the right and up the wall over 2 K… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6
Sportovní nemehlo
In the left part of the massif, up the small wall over 3 BH directly to the rappelling BH… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
3
Komín
Up the chimney between the tower and the massif to the top. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5
Taky cesta
Left of the route "Sportovní nemehlo" (Sporting Klutz) through a broken crack between the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
9+
Divoká Mazurka
Access from the corner near the route "Taky cesta" left to the edge to the BH and slab… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5
Sluneční cesta
As 'West Route' to the plateau. From its right edge, through the gully to its end, over… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6-
Západní cesta - Detektivní varianta
In the right part of the NW wall, up the wall and riblet to the terrace and as 'West… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
7/7+
Dítkám
From the left of the chimney along the small pillars via the overhanging wall and crack… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
4-
Komín - Varianta
Up the chimney to 3/4 of its height, traverse the E wall along the ledge to the left and… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
6
Jméno růže
Through the middle of the S wall diagonally right over 4 K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5
Západní cesta - Varianta
Via the 'West Route' to the plateau. Through the middle of the wall under the overhang,… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5
Západní cesta
On the W side from the boulder, up the wall to the left into a crack and through it to a… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
6
Zeď nářků
Access in the left part of the valley (S) wall. Diagonally right up the wall, then… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
7+/8-
Olověný brouk
Left of "Silence after the path" over 6 BH to K of "Melancholic Blues". Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7+/8-
Písečná bouře
Through the center of the valley wall over an overhang (BH) via a crack (BH) to the end … Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8-/8
Past na Špeka
From J through the crack (BH) to the end and further up to the ledge to the K of the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
8/8+
Urvi co můžeš!
As 'Sandstorm' over the overhang and left to the BH. Up the wall over 4 BH to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6-
Melancholické blues
Via the chimney between the tower and the massif on its E side briefly upwards, then… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7+/8-
Ticho po pěšině
In the right part of the valley wall over 7 BH to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7+/8-
Levý Inox
Right of the Ferum route from the fore-rock from the 2nd BH slightly left, up and back to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6-
Přejištěná
Completely on the right in the large corner between Smolař and Monolit along the small… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6+/7-
Inox
Right of the Ferum route from the fore-rock of the wall onto a block and from there over… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6+/7-
Neštastný chlap
Right of the route "Re-bolted", via a small pillar and wall over 4 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7+/8-
Děkanův omyl
Along the SE edge directly to the 1st K, then along the blunt edge to the balcony and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
7+/8-
Nekonečný příběh
Left of the route "Dean's Mistake", via a crack and wall over 8 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3