Ostroh Gilotiny is, with almost 250 routes on 22 rocks, the largest sector of the left bank of the Elbe Valley. The biggest include Sicilská stěna, Indiánka, Gilotina, Pivní kámen, Smolař, Monolit and Otec. There are traditional and sport sandstone routes with rings and textile protection, often in the shade; grades from 2 to 10+/11-.
Part of 7. Elbe Valley – left bank, 10. Ostroh Gilotiny has 247 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2 to 10+/11-. Explore its 22 crags and sectors below.
Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Textile belay, Sport Climbing.
Rules
First ascents only after prior approval of the rock manager, e-mail: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz. The valid conditions for approving first ascents are here.
- Top-rope only where it will not damage the rock or fixed gear (own quickdraw as anchor, no rope friction on the rock).
- First ascents only with the area administrator's approval (left bank: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz).
- Unapproved fixed equipment is banned.
The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.
- Chalk is banned.
- No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
- Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
- Do not alter the rock surface.
- Abseil from the summit rings.
Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.
Sicilská stěna Indiánka Gilotina Pivní kámen Smolař Monolit Otec Sierra madre Indián Pivní tácek Blueberry hill Totem Mariáš Tee pee Postýlka Filuta Gargamel Klikař Shrek Íšek Panenka Qac
7/7+
Indián Krák
Briefly like "Return to Romance" and up the left crack over 2 K below the overhang. Like … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Klobásová alej
Through the corner between Totem and the left pillar of Indiánka via BH through the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6+/7-
Medvědí hlava
In the left pillar over an overhang and up the wall over 7 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6-
Takejta
Right of "Tašunka" via a sloping crack to K. Traverse right, up to a sloping ledge, along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6+/7-
Rodinná přepadovka
Right of the Medvědí hlava (Bear's Head) route, via a waterfall from the corner (BH) over… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7/7+
Lolitám
From the valley up the wall into the left crack and along it to its end, further along… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7-/7
Fenkám
Up the Southeast edge over 2 BH to the balcony and higher up the wall over 5 BH to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
7-/7
Tašunka
From the valley up the crack to its end to the 1st K. Left behind the edge into a crack,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7/7+
Voo-Doo
From the 1st K of the "Tašunka" route, directly up the wall over 2 K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6+/7-
Bezstarostný větroplach
Left of the "SE Chimney" over 5 BH, higher up the wall (right of the SE Chimney) over the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7-/7
La chica checa
Up the SE face over 2 K to the ledge and further up the wall to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
5+
Jihovýchodní komín
From the SE chimney over BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7-/7
Peachfish
From the 1st BH of the "Carefree Windbag" route, slightly left and up over 5 BH to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8-/8
Červená řeka
To the left of the corner separating the right pillar, along the blunt edge (3 BH),… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6+/7-
Znouzecnost
On the right pillar, right of the edge, up the wall over 3 BH to the pulpit. Higher up… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6-
Rychlé mokasíny
From the left, along the edge of the right pillar over 2 K to the rappel K. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
4+
Kalumet
Up the crack to the left of "Fast Moccasins" to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6+/7-
Coco tee
In the left part of the massif, up the wall along the blunt edge over 2 BH to a ledge (K)… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8-/8
Čo
In the right part of the massif, directly up the wall and via small cracks over 2 BH to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6
Žabí hřbet
Completely left through the chimney to a horizontal discontinuity (loop) and to the 1st… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7/7+
Amulet
On the main pillar via a crack at the blunt edge to the 1st K. Up the wall over the 2nd K… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7-/7
Náměstí nebeského míru
Through the corner and cracks in the North face over the 1st K into the crack and up it… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
9+
Amores perros
Right of the route "Square of Heavenly Peace" up the wall over 4 BH under the overhang to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8-/8
Pavel´s Moonwalk
Right from the start of the "Moon Face" route via a corner and left to the 1st BH. Up the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8-/8
Space-Eggs
Right of the route "Square of Heavenly Peace" up the wall to the fore-rock and up the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6+/7-
Hrdelní trest
In the fall line of the sharp edge of the "Guillotine" directly over 2 K to the 1st K of… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7-/7
Měsíční tvář
As a path through the Moon Landscape, traverse the crack and left along the edge over 3… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7-/7
Měsíční krajinou
Right in the valley wall via a corner, higher up a crack to its end to the 1st K.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Gilotina
In the fall line of a mighty corner, separating two prominent edges, along the small… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6
Červenozelená střela
As "Guillotine" to the flake and left through the gully to the 1st K. Up the wall via the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2